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0.40-0.48mm new, 0.78mm is the limit for checking used bearing end float.

A vacuum leak will do that.

A dud CAS behaves like that.

In basic terms: Undo the retaining plate, remove the axle, take it to a shop with a press, strip the collar and bearing, install the plate and seal, take it back to the shop and get it pressed back together, reinstall. Picture below shows them in ready to reinstall state.

Tricky one. Check for fault codes first. Check plugs and leads, and coils by moving them around to see if the problem moves with them. Replace the fuel filter if that hasn’t been done in a while. Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for splits, check the regulator for fuel leaking...

I had a similar issue once but at idle. Turned out to be an oxy sensor causing the mixture to lean out little bit at running temps. Only found it after pulling the trends on a laptop. Not sure that fits your problem though. Something leaning the mix out or letting in some air like the IAC...

You should just need to get the engine and box aligned. The engine will tilt back into the firewall when the box is clear so it’s still trying rotate that way to grab the input shaft through the clutch/flywheel. Try stuffing a rolled up blanket between the engine and firewall to keep it...

Finally got to the bottom of this. Jacked the rear end on stands, took the wheels off and ‘drove it’ to pin point the source. It was coming from the centre bearing and is most likely a steel slinger rubbing against the fixed rubber shroud when the shaft is dropped down a bit at low speeds...

Splitting a nut on the back side of a spring clamped, pressed metal flange isn’t hitting a manifold. Using a cold chisel isn’t the same as hammering a drift either. The force on the manifold will be insignificant. If the OP gets the sh@ts and just smashes the flange in frustration with a...

If I were in your situation I’d start with Shane’s suggestion to try to preserve the bolt. Bunnings sell cold chisels and the one you want has a blade about 12mm across. If you don’t feel comfortable doing that, then order the parts and drive it. Unless you’ve got a long haul to work a minor...

The back of the getrag has a three spoked yoke the rubber coupling bolts to. The shank of the yoke has the speedo inductor gear on it. The removal of the driveshaft can’t hurt the box bearings but I also wondered if running with a collapsed centre bearing rubber might’ve worn something there...

One more bit of info I left out and why I asked about the coupling. Tonight I reversed the carrier frame orientation for a quick experiment and drove it to the end of the street and back. The noise got worse.

I don't think so. It’s not continuous, but frequent. I had the carrier frame undone tonight checking fit-up /orientation and spun the bearing and it’s smooth as silk. Not getting hot either on long runs.

Gotta noise driving me up the wall. A couple of weeks ago I spotted that the tailshaft centre bearing rubber was torn and the bearing sitting low in the carrier. Everything was running fine and quiet otherwise. Ripped out the tailshaft and replaced the bearing and CV joint. CV only because...

It got the better of me so I had someone dig into my toolbox and send me a pic. It’s 32mm but the end has to be chamfered to get a proper bite on the nut.

I reckon you’re right for the M78 too. I’m sitting here thinking and the nut head is non-standard being smaller than standard.

It’s an M22 thread so it will be a 32mm socket. I’m not at home otherwise I’d be able to confirm for you ‘cause I have a nut left over in my shed from an old job.

From memory the plastic fuse mount just clips into a piece of sheet body work thats sitting up vertically to mount it. I think it was a flat bladed screw driver into those two holes to flex the plastic barb away from the mount then it just pulls up.

Three wires, three pins. I just pulled it, started and ran it for a while just to make sure I wasn’t having late night memory syndrome last night.

Same diagrams ( all three versions in this thread) but I’m the same as Deuce. Disconnecting the oil switch just gives a red light, no engine stop. I’ll have a dig tomorrow morning.

They’ll pass inspection but the tail shaft bolts have a smaller than standard head to snug into the casting profile. If you’ve put in standard bolts, the head could be resting against the cast toe and misaligned. If so the bolts will fail under fatigue loading. Check to ensure the bolt heads...

The FP relay trumps the oil switch. It latches and diverts fuel pump power through it’s circuit and takes the oil switch out of the equation. FP relay coil energises, power diverts from 87A-30 to 87-30.

Fuse 23 also feeds the BCM.

The oil switch won’t kill the fuel pump (even though it’s wired into the fuel pump circuit). As soon as the fuel pump relay is energised it provides power to the fuel pump and takes the oil switch out of the equation. The fuse blowing here also provides power to the BCU so when the fuel pump...

Despite looking simple, It’s a pig of a job in a ute (I’ve done the sedan too, much easier) so if you’re going to have the tank out, renew the pump. That’s the easy bit once the tank is out. It’s been ten years since I did a ute but I remember being uneasy about how much residual fuel was...

The fuse he’s blowing is on the power side of the relay. There’s only the pump power wire and pump itself downstream of the relay.

Actually I take that back, ephect is right, it’s the fuel pump. I just pulled the fuse and get the same issue. Far more likely the fuel pump has gone than the BCM.

It’ll be the BCM which explains why it’s killed the immobiliser light (which is a BCM output) and won’t let you crank it. The fuse serves the BCM and key receiver but I think they’re integrated in the BCM as a unit.

It’s got the better of me so I shelved what I was doing to have a look at the wiring diagrams. The fuel pump fuse also fuses power to the Body Control Module. Same for the key receiver unit. That fuse supplies power to a range of systems.

If not for the blown fuse I’d have started with the immobiliser system. Your symptoms are the same as trying to start it whilst in drive. The fuse is a bit weird. I don‘t recall any fuel system interlocks that would stop the starter cranking and on that, check the starter wiring to ensure...

I got a relatively quiet (but not perfect) one at a wrecker and then filed down the spring detent a little bit to make it less aggressive on the spring. It’s been OK for 2-3 years now.

Before you go too far, just confirm that the clunk isn’t the sprung door strap first. They’re notorious for wearing and end up giving off a clunk loud enough to be a bang that sounds like a door pin about to let go. The clunk comes from the torsion spring part of the assembly inside the door...

The vacuum switch to activate the heater tap is a small black plastic piston secured in place by two screws actuated by a white cam lever behind the console kick panel cover in the drivers left footwell. The temperature dial actuates this with a cable. The default position for the piston is...

If the black plastic plenum cover is cracked around where the drivers windscreen wiper boss is, water will work its way down past the grommets and seals in the firewall typically because they’re old and starting to perish a little bit. I was able to seal up the plenum with some black RTV and...

NSW has always made it hard, even down to the annual pink slips. They’ve even been giving the certifying engineers a hard time of late. A mod in series is straight forward to get done though, it’s just the hassle to get the documents done. As someone else said the insurance is a bigger hurdle.

Not in NSW.

If it started life as an ecotec, as soon as you increase the engine capacity or apply forced induction it will need an engineers certificate and the inspections that go with that. The RMS website has a guideline that details it all out. It’s been 18 months since I read it though so have a...

They fit both. The roll is slightly longer than needed so you you’ll need to fit it and cut it for an exact fit. I’d do them all. Easy to do.

Idle it with the fan belt off for a minute to rule out the pulleys etc. It does sound like a lifter but first things first. If not a pulley or lifter a worn cam lobe will make the same ticking noise. The lifter roller bearing surface is usually spalled by the time it’s worn enough to tick and...

You’ll need to jack the car up, remove the transmission and drop the sump a few mm. Once that’s done it’s straightforward. My only tip would be to jack the car up as far as possible so you can sit up straight in the trans tunnel. If you don’t it’s a PITA reaching up scraping the old gasket...