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Yeah this had me stumped for a few days I never thought a good reving would move the air blockage but it did. But the coolant was actually boiling at 115'c when lower hose was cold crazy stuff thanks skylarking its good to converse with someone just in case your missing something.. good times...

UPDATE...Haha I fixed it all it really needed was a bloody good red lining now the heater is blowing hot air, lower rad hose is hot yey I'm so happy now I didn't want to rev it kos I've installed Mace cams and otr intake and they said not to rev it above 2500 rpm until I get it tuned... well...

Hi mate thanks for the detailed reply. The most annoying thing is removing the bloody thermostat housing good 1 in the placement of that I installed the new thermostat housing when the engine was out of the vehicle I've removed all the upper cowling wipers etc to get a better look at but I can't...

So I did the full fu Manchu technique with heater running etc etc with the new rad and hoses and its still rooted Aargh! Heater us blowing cold even though the coolant is boiling in the ghetto filler

Cheers mate I recon your spot on... the first time I did it on my old rad it worked fine and I just happened to put the heater on whilst filling (just to see if it was blowing hot air) and when I got the new rad and had all the problems I never did the heater on thing so I guess its a critical...

Is your ly7 a ve.? My ly7 ve series1 has no such bleeder valve on both radiators I'm guessing u must have a vy or vz.?

Ironically when I did this the very 1st time after the rebuild I did turn the heater on only because I was sitting in the car at the time not because I thought it would help but everything worked fine that first time. Now with this new rad in and out last night three times and my old rad back...

Also bro do u know why u have to run the heater whilst filling the radiator thats the only bit I don't really understand its not like there's a valve that opens and shuts off the flow

Just bought this in case I'm still doing this in a few days time lol

Yeah Fu Manchu is so knowledgeable i did the cut bottle thing not because I read his thread only kos I had to filter the coolant every time as a few bugs landed in it so I laid a shirt over a cut bottle and my son held it in place as I poured the coolant in. I didn't do the heater on thing...

I've pulled all the cowling off so I can access the thermostat bolts I'm going to remove the pipe just to 100% make sure there's nothing physically stuck behind it im 99% sure there's no actual blockage unless its air.? Il post back when I get it off thanks for the help guys

I only buy genuine parts.. water pump was ac delco from Mace engineering there was nothing wrong with the old thermostat I just replaced it as I was rebuilding the engine and as you said its a total bitch to get at

Your theory on the air pocket behind the thermostat stopping the thermostat from heating up sounds like that could be it.? I can't think of anything else it could be? It would be bad luck though for this to happen all 3 times it got removed and re installed... but at this point this is the most...

Yeah I'm leaning towards the thermostat now too even though its brand new i only just got the motor back in last weekend and only drove the car for 3 days b4 this crap happened and it was half way on the temp guage when I was driving. Would it go bad so quickly though when it was working fine...

Yeah I thought that too but it is getting physically hot i can hear the water boiling and its very hot when I drop the fluid to change radiators

Top hose is boiling.... lower hose is way colder... no flow but the water pump is 2 weeks old

Yeah the belts turning water pump is brand new too so I doubt its that but the top hose is hot and lower hose is heaps colder so your right there's no or little flow but I doubt its the pump its 2 weeks old

Yeah I've done that exact thing pulled all hoses flushed the entire system even though I know there's nothing in there its all been acid bathed few weeks ago I drove the car for 3 days no probs at all its got me totally stumped as I've done this so many times before and never had this happen...

Yep fan plugged in and working

So I decided to replace my radiator not because it was overheating just because the top pipe was snapped off and the hose barely held on... Anyway bought a new natrad radiator $300+ new hoses etc got home replaced the radiator filled it with dex cool straight away it overheats bad needle on high...

Sorry bro I didn't check for codes just plugged it back in

Have you increased your wheel size that can throw the speedo out quite a bit

Maf sensor i had mine unplugged started the car and got esp and abs fault and went away when I plugged the maf back in

If you turn the ignition on and leave it on for about 10-30mins the immobilizer will overheat and turn off allowing you to start the car... then ul know if its a security issue

I removed my oil pan recently i was ready to do the steering rack thing but then.. without much persuasion it just fell out.. so much for that bs all I did was jack up the front on axel stands.

Yeah m8 I've been working on my car every day for a few weeks now . So many awesome performance-oriented parts on the way the worst part is waiting for AU post to deliver takes 10/14 days from Victoria to Perth... really!

Good stuff my VE had the exact same problem I pulled the valve covers off and couldn't believe the amount of sludge and carbon build up. So dropped the sump oil pick up was blocked big time rubber seal was hard as nails and shrunken. So its definitely a stock problem that happens over time. I'm...

Yep me too the 5 speed boxes are really crap when they age. My ve is off the road at the mo timing chains totally carbon blocked top end. So full rebuild then when thats done the 5speed box is still rooted slipping etc can't win only thing good about my car is the body is a1 condition or I...

The ZB is not a Commodore!

Short story bought a ve v6 in January soon found out I bought a car that needs a engine rebuild and transmission rebuild yey! So was getting tappy losing oil pressure clanky at cold start. Removed the valve covers and I've never seen so much carbon build up on any car ever.. and its clear that...

Lol usually utes don't have the inspection hole so maybe yours has been done after it left the factory. Saves a **** load if time though so gotta be happy with that!

Lol pretty sure I could remove the bs and cull this thread and make it 80% less reading with 'just the facts mam' to many threads turn into arguments and personal attacks on ppl. Make it a rule to add just the facts to the conversation please.

I've never heard of a ly7 with a 4speed box.?

Yeah I've been contemplating replacing my ve 5 speed series1 with the series 2 6 speed box. But was talked out of it so much stuff u need to change or reflashing ecu etc etc it sucks man wish it was as easy as my Gemini 4 speed to 5 speed box conversion easy peasy works straight away no computer bs.

Buy series 2 if u can but mine is calais series 1 and has full leather interior

The zb is not a commodore its an over engineered fwd 2.0 piece of ****!

Anyway heres the service manual if the link don't work send me ur email address and il email it to you its 600+Mb https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/review?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:320b2e4b-8c0a-4b3d-ad73-3b3840c311c7

Yeah FU Manchu couldn't of said it better myself bro... they can't even hook up a scan tool to the bloody thing so thats going to be hard. Ide start by disconnecting most stuff that's been f7c%$ed with each time plugging in the can tool until you get the scan tool to start telling you what the...

Sounds like one of those things where maybe its an easy fix and got it for a good price or its the start of alot of future money spent and could be a lemon. If the guy removed the power to the fuse box ide be starting there do you have a service manual.?

Maybe the base timing is out or there's an ignition problem where the fuel ain't been burned up in the combustion process so it stays wet on the plugs