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Haha I’ll change my location I’m in Fnq :D

Reading this a year after, can I swap either crank sensor with each other, or are the exhaust sensors dedicated exhaust side?

Was driving the gf 2012 sv6 sedan and car started making a tapping sort of sound, pulled over and the entire engine was shaking, dove back home and got p0017 code and P0106 code. Any help? EDIT- gonna try replace cam sensors, where’s a good place to get them?

Hey mate curious how well yours has been working?

Hey bro link doesn’t work anymore do you have another one?

Hey all autbarn gave me open diff fluid for my lsd differential and as a result I’ve got glitter and shaving in my diff now, I get a clunking sound on corners a lot of the time and often the diff locks completely, I’ve already tried putting the correct fluid in and some friction modifier but...

Ahh okay, it is an lsd but there’s so little information on them it’s so annoying

It is full synthetic gl5 penrite but not sure what the 140 means

Hey all replaced the differential fluid in my commy a couple months ago and recently when I go around corners it’s locking up way too early, and causing “chittering” I think it’s called. I’ve heard it could be because I used the wrong fluid, so I’ve gone and got some new stuff. It says in the...

Yeah fair enough, I already got a series 2 online and it worked fine

Ahh yeah okay, so you’re saying you fixed the issue by swapping fr the vf board to the ve? That’s a shame as I’m pretty sure it is the be one haha

How do I tell the difference between them all they all kind of look the same to me

Yeah mines a ve s1 car but I did a conversion to a s2 which has the map lights, did the s2 ve maybe share the same circuit board as the vf?

Ahh yeah, I first got some red t10 off eBay which worked fine but then I replaced them with colour changing ones from spectrum. I’ve only ever had problems recently and it only seems to happen in bad heat

I know this is a while ago but if you remember did they have issues on hotter days?

Hey old comment so not expecting a response haha, but I have some led bulbs I put in my map lights and it seems on hot days that they don’t want to turn off, could the day heat of fnq be messing with the chip Turing on/off?

Did you ever find out the issue?

Can someone explain what the tube that connects to the air intake tube after the maf sensor does, I always thought that this let fresh air into the crank case on the passenger side, and then the driver side had the pcv valve that allowed the positive pressure to be vented along with dirty air...

Hey all noticed sometimes when at idle in my car the aircon will alternate at lot. Like if I have the ac blowing on the lowest setting it’ll randomly blow full power for a second then go back. But I don’t get this problem once I start driving it’s only at idle that I can tell

They should only keep rusting if I don’t remove the current rust, or allow moisture to get back into it, which I’ll do everything to avoid, and for the surface rust I only mean on the brake mount, the accelerator pedal one is definitely fcked but if I remove the current rust and use proper...

If I could I would but I’m already shi77ing myself with just the basic wiring I’ve undone so far

Around the brake mount is just surface rust, the only spot with bad rust is the accelerator. And I would take more off but I can’t bring myself to take the loom out, that’s just too much for me, I’m sure if I can get rid of what rust is here then use some high strength filler then it’ll work...

And what do you think about my brake booster, I haven’t had any issues with braking and I can’t see any leaks, but this rubber seals a bit old. There’s also the rust on the seal which I don’t know if that’s from leakage or something else

Hmm what about some fibreglass Bondo? Then lather it in sealant still?

I’ve gotten to the crash bar and removed some other bits and items, but I don’t trust myself to remove any more of the wiring loom, just too scared so I’ve moved the crash bar back an inch and I think I’m going to remove what rust I can, then try weld in a plate to back it and just absolutely...

Currently just getting down to the crash bar, brake pedal box is out, then hopefully pull the crash bar out. When you did it did you have to take the wiring out for this but or did you manoeuvre it out of the way

Definitely, just need to figure the best plan of attack atm

Yup. I had a look it didn’t look like the brake booster leaked but I’ll get a new one anyway only 80-120$. I still have more of the dash to go. Im Thinking for the surface rust wire wheel and use some rust prevention paint

Just took the brake booster off, here’s how bad it is

Already done and had a look through for what’s ahead, computer on standby haha

Ahh okay copy that, and looks like a good idea for the glovebox soft opener

Ahhhh okay got ya, mines snapped off that’s why I couldn’t find it

Okay copy that, is that what you had to do for yours? And will I definitely have to do it because on the steering column I can’t actually see a sensor of any sort

Ahh okay is that cord supposed to connect to something else

Ahh sweet thank you, and I’m going through my Haynes manual, there’s actually a pretty decent step by step for a lot of it

@Fu Manchu do you know what this thing is on the side of my glove box??

Thanks will order some ahead of time, and mines a series 1 luckily

Sweet thanks, I think I’ve seen a thread you were in which you posted pics of your dash fully torn down, is that the extent you need to go to for this? Even taking apart the passenger side?

Yeah that sounds awesome, I imagine taking plastic parts off without snapping them was also a pain