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The codes I pulled by bridging pins 5 and 6 were: 0506 - Idle Control System RPM lower than expected 1361 - Top Dead Center sensor The crank angle sensor has only been recently replaced

2000 Holden VX. By harsh start I mean, it seems aggressive. Rarely, a check engine light will come on, and it won't start, but 99% of the time it starts fine, just a bit harsh, like almost a clunk at times. Brand new Bosch starter motor. Then, it revs up to about 2000, stays there for what...

Strange thought: While working on car, I had plenum chamber and fuel rail sitting upside down in garage (injectors sitting up in the air). Not too sure on internal mechanisms of injectors, but could having them sit upside down for too long cause some kind of valve in there to stay open? Like I...

Will sort injectors. Re: MAF. Just unplugged MAF and started car, idled a little lower and check engine light came on. Looked like more fuel coming out of tail pipe? Plugged MAF back in and started car, idled a little higher, no check engine light. Looked like less fuel out of tail pipe...

Checked the wires, they all look okay. Great info, thanks.

The cheap ebay ones were in and functioning fine before disassembly. But I get what you're saying.

Rough idle, guessing because there's too much fuel in cylinders. Various places. I changed the LIM gaskets. I don't understand how the LIM gaskets relate to fuel in oil. You have the intake ports and the coolant ports. Either way, there is too much fuel going into the cylinders. More likely that...

They're cheap ebay ones. Recently dismantled and reassembled top end, but were working fine before disassembly. Couldn't possibly be MAF? Telling injectors to let through too much fuel?

No fuel in vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator. It's also a new regulator.

Dip stick smells like fuel

Okay, hadn't thought of that. Injectors are all new.

All new

Just replaced the LIM gaskets, it's not water.

Pretty sure its fuel. Exhaust reeks of it, and I've put my hand over the exhaust and smelt the drops and its fuel. There's fuel on the driveway under the exhaust pipe. Car also stalls after revving for a while - I suspect its flooded.

Hi folks, My VX has way too much fuel being injected, as in, there is a spray of unburnt fuel flying out of the exhaust. I have looked on here and am aware of the usual culprits (MAF, IAC, IAT, PCV, o2 sensors, DFI, coils). I have so far replaced the IAC valve (looked gummed up and old and it...

You've basically described exactly the process I've been through, right up to the point of collapsing the bolt. The thread in the block starts about an inch into the hole, have collapsed it up to there. Trying to decide now whether to keep collapsing (issues as you say) or go straight for the...

I did use a power bar at first, no joy. Impact wrench only goes to about 200nm. I considered the torque of the impact wrench in regards to the tightening torque of the head bolts.

I'll give it a go. When it still had the head on it, I used impact wrenches and it didn't budge it, just started to shear the head off. I get that the centre punch will give a different direction of force though...

By "centre pop" you mean with a punch of some kind?

I've looked in the manuals that I have and it doesn't mention cylinder head bolts that have access to the cooling system. The only thread sealant that's mentioned is Loctite 242, which is to prevent loosening from vibration, not a sealant for fluids?

Sounds like fun. Did you do that yourself, with a hand drill?

Thank you, yes, I'll give that a go.

Well, I drained all the coolant in so far as I disconnected the lower radiator hose... Okay, I did notice what looked like a sealant on one of the upper head bolts, but not on the other two lower ones...

Replacing the head gaskets, when removing one of the lower cylinder head bolts (the one closest to the firewall, right hand side cylinder head when standing in front of the car), coolant came pouring out of the bolt hole. First thoughts, "that's not normal". Could anyone please confirm? I'm...

Update: before tackling the job of removing the harmonic balancer to get to the crank angle sensor (I'm going to have to weld up the tool to hold it), I thought I'd have a look at the plug that connects to the DFI module (in the past, one of the female pins had splayed and wasn't making good...

You're right, the 2nd alternator is 2nd hand - I must have bad luck then. The car isn't starting - I have recharged the battery fully with a charger a couple of times now to be sure - no change. I can see how what you're saying might make sense with the car running, and how it might apply when...

I didn't do the last CAS, someone else did - but turns out, they didn't. I was led to believe they had, and that the one I got in the box was the used one - just got it out, it looks brand new! Deplhi. Oh well, just ordered a cheap eBay one too - I suppose that can be a backup.

I just tried it then. No go. What would be the thinking behind that? A problem with the transmission?

It just does 0012 on a constant loop. No other codes.

Also, surely a cam angle sensor would throw out a check engine light/ code 0046/0047?

No spark at any cylinder. I'll replace both the CPS and CAS and see what happens. Yes, fuel pressure good.

As in for the starter motor? It is cranking.

New DFI module and coils are OEM - Delphi. Will re-check wiring to it. Will re-check fuse under bonnet injectors/ignition 15A

CPS - Crank Position Sensor? CAS - Crank Angle Sensor? Same thing or two different things?

I get two lots of 10 flashes, and then 1, and then 2 flashes - so yes, I'm reading that as 0012. Elsewhere on these forums I read on a pdf that 12 meant "satisfactory operation"? Also, the crank angle sensor was replaced not that long ago. But I will go ahead and look at it, thank you. If I'm...

I swapped the alternator, and it had no effect. Car won't start. I thought you could have been on to something, as I was hearing a low buzzing/ringing coming from around the alternator when on reds. But I heard the same on the new alternator. I'm thinking the buzzing could have something to do...

I checked for spark today with an inline spark tester while cranking. No spark on any cylinder. Battery and park brake light stay on when cranking. No other lights. Bear in mind, I have new DFI, coils and leads. Last time when DFI/coils failed I was getting a check engine light. I have changed...

At this point, I'm suspecting fuel pressure. I am in the process of organising the tools/parts to do a fuel pressure test. Will post the outcome of this.

Pretty sure it lets you know if a coil is out.

Hmm, I have been wondering about the alternator. Have checked it, will double check it. But, surely the car would still start?