Recent content by Grimes

0.40-0.48mm new, 0.78mm is the limit for checking used bearing end float.

A vacuum leak will do that.

A dud CAS behaves like that.

In basic terms: Undo the retaining plate, remove the axle, take it to a shop with a press, strip the collar and bearing, install the plate and seal, take it back to the shop and get it pressed back together, reinstall. Picture below shows them in ready to reinstall state.

Tricky one. Check for fault codes first. Check plugs and leads, and coils by moving them around to see if the problem moves with them. Replace the fuel filter if that hasn’t been done in a while. Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for splits, check the regulator for fuel leaking...

I had a similar issue once but at idle. Turned out to be an oxy sensor causing the mixture to lean out little bit at running temps. Only found it after pulling the trends on a laptop. Not sure that fits your problem though. Something leaning the mix out or letting in some air like the IAC...

You should just need to get the engine and box aligned. The engine will tilt back into the firewall when the box is clear so it’s still trying rotate that way to grab the input shaft through the clutch/flywheel. Try stuffing a rolled up blanket between the engine and firewall to keep it...

Finally got to the bottom of this. Jacked the rear end on stands, took the wheels off and ‘drove it’ to pin point the source. It was coming from the centre bearing and is most likely a steel slinger rubbing against the fixed rubber shroud when the shaft is dropped down a bit at low speeds...

Splitting a nut on the back side of a spring clamped, pressed metal flange isn’t hitting a manifold. Using a cold chisel isn’t the same as hammering a drift either. The force on the manifold will be insignificant. If the OP gets the sh@ts and just smashes the flange in frustration with a...

If I were in your situation I’d start with Shane’s suggestion to try to preserve the bolt. Bunnings sell cold chisels and the one you want has a blade about 12mm across. If you don’t feel comfortable doing that, then order the parts and drive it. Unless you’ve got a long haul to work a minor...

The back of the getrag has a three spoked yoke the rubber coupling bolts to. The shank of the yoke has the speedo inductor gear on it. The removal of the driveshaft can’t hurt the box bearings but I also wondered if running with a collapsed centre bearing rubber might’ve worn something there...

One more bit of info I left out and why I asked about the coupling. Tonight I reversed the carrier frame orientation for a quick experiment and drove it to the end of the street and back. The noise got worse.

I don't think so. It’s not continuous, but frequent. I had the carrier frame undone tonight checking fit-up /orientation and spun the bearing and it’s smooth as silk. Not getting hot either on long runs.

Gotta noise driving me up the wall. A couple of weeks ago I spotted that the tailshaft centre bearing rubber was torn and the bearing sitting low in the carrier. Everything was running fine and quiet otherwise. Ripped out the tailshaft and replaced the bearing and CV joint. CV only because...

It got the better of me so I had someone dig into my toolbox and send me a pic. It’s 32mm but the end has to be chamfered to get a proper bite on the nut.