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Is it cooked? I'm getting a heavy clunk while driving and from what I can see with the movement in the rack it'd possibly be hitting the radius arm. Every component in the suspension is new and still tight. This vid shows the movement This vid is the noise inside while driving

Had a search on the forum already but figured I'd ask again, I've replaced the rear sensors and it didn't fix the issue, scanned the ABS and no codes came up (might be the scanner I guess). I did recently change the front hubs but they're plugged in and appear fine.. Would it be possible to...

TL;DR: If theres a sticker like substance on the brake pad shims scrape it off on concrete then lube em up and put em back on, also make sure the caliper shims are sorta big enough to hold onto the caliper tightly Changed brakes, shims and rotors mid 2019 and had a clunk coming from the front...

There isn't as much flare as oem but they still have enough to hold the wheels in place, just figured I'd double check and see if anyone else has used em? Cheers

Didn't get it in the video but it may speed up as RPM is increased

May be hard to see as videos flipped to the side (easier in full screen). Do they need replacing or a tightening? Cheers

Do you need a specific tool?

Just a general question, but what are common problems for either car at that amount of KM or how long do these engines generally last?

Trying to test my MAF and I've seen if its good the engine will stall, although I pulled mine and it kept running. Is this normal for a VE? TIA

I've taken the valve covers off before which is simple enough so I can get access to the rockers and everything but is it a major PITA to change the seals after that step? In general it looks simple enough to: Remove the spark plugs Feed some rope into the spark plug tube Get the piston TDC...

After searching for the source of this clunk for over a year I think I've found it.... Was pushing the car in neutral and it rolled back towards me off a small bump so the driveshaft went from reverse - forward and heard the noise, Is it normal for it to do this? I've grabbed it before to try...

Trying the smoke test again to find a vac leak but this time did it from the brake booster hose and noticed smoke billowing out from the vacuum pump and figured it may only be a one-way air flow where there is some sort of valve stopping air from going out.. is that correct? If this isn't it...

The noise only happens in full lock, in the vid it goes from full clockwise - full anticlockwise, the power steering reservoir has also raised above the max cold line and doesn't change when it warms up, the liquid does smell burnt but putting it on white paper towel it looks a nice clear red...

Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 4 Cylinder 5 Cylinder 6 I won't say which one I think looks stuck open just so I'm not imagining things.. but it oddly also looks much cleaner than every other cylinder, also had a look on top of the pistons when I removed the spark plugs and didn't see...

This is the last possible thing I can find that may be a problem with my front end clunking.. Looking at these old shims its quite clear where the brake pads sit and now thinking about it it makes sense for those little metal things to hold the pads off the rotor and when brake pedal is pressed...

Changed all pads, shims and rotors around 8,000km ago as they were due and everything seemed fine until I started hearing this crunchy noise pretty much when changing gear or when letting the brakes off when first starting the car, any ideas on why it could be happening? Also the only thing I...

Car has been running rich for a while and couldn't find a leak in the engine bay and figured it started around the same time I get the tranny serviced so decided to have a look at it for anything that looked wrong.. Found the hose starting to crack at the T join where it connects from the tranny...

This all started around a month ago, thought I had a vacuum leak as fuel trims were high and had an intermittent rough idle, after using smoke to find a leak with no success I reset the ECM last week to reset the fuel trims just to have a suss on any other problems.. straight after doing this I...

I've been try to find a vacuum leak for the past few weeks with no success including using the smoke method, and I was also trying to figure out why there was oil constantly on my valve cover but gave up after changing the gasket... Last night I came across this tiny crack which seemed to be...

Also, there seems to be an oil leak coming from the filler neck, is this common and would tape solve this or do you need to replace the valve cover? The O ring for the cap was recently changed with no success

I've had a look at the autoinstruct guide and its pretty straight forward but that only shows from pcv valve > crank case, do you need to also put a catch can between valve cover > intake? I ask as I seem to get a bit of oil vapour in the intake which seems to come from valve cover > intake...

I already have replaced my strut top mounts with generic ones off ebay but I figured I'd ask now.. is there a big difference in quality, from the bearings to the actual rubber? Cheers

Is this a sign of a leaking valve cover gasket? I've changed the oil cap and I still see oil around the neck of the cap and the video shows it going the whole way down so I'd assume its not just coming through the oil cap.. Potentially valve cover gasket? Is there any way to check without...

Specifically KYB EXCEL-G and Lovells lowered springs, I'm interested in better handling but not too sure about less comfort.. Would the lowered Lovells and KYB struts still be a smoother ride than stock in a sportwagon? Does anyone know form experience how much of a difference it would make...

Sorry for wind, can hear the clunk best around 22 seconds Been hearing this clunking for some time now and haven't been able to figure it out, I've looked over the suspension and ended up changing the sway bar links with no success, looked at the sway bar bushings which appear in good condition...

2011 VE Omega Series II, seems theres an oil leak and this looks like it could be a culprit

Hey dudes, had a search around online and so far all I've found is people talking about running wires to the boot in sedan's using an LOC, nothing on wagons (if its any different). I'd like to install it myself to save some cash so any tips would be appreciated :D