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5S , lean manufacturing , one piece flow , 5S champion , red tag area I've been part of this crap and seen it fail miserably every time , to the point a few companies shut down and outsourced to china once they pissed off all the local customers for time to deliver and missed deadlines Luckily...

so this is the result of a failed module on my RA rodeo 4jj1 so either the key went kaput or the module itself ( module is located passenger side dash to the left of the glove box) now being the tight ass I am I was not paying a locksmith $500 plus dollars to code a new key or replace faulty...

rust all cut out and welded - rear guards and windscreen and fixed new windscreen rubber and screen installed without wrecking the rubber or breaking the glass sprayed the the windscreen surround 2K asteroid silver before fitting it back in car almost prepped , just got move all the kids bikes...

you can buy the VATS disabled memcals from Mace ( on trademe) or hunt for a complete VN / VP loom and ecu which are often on trade me I suppose it all depends on the BCM and key for the VATS , if the person who engine swapped left all the factory stuff it should all work , I only ever...

Torque performance (Avondale) used to do the memcal stuff and disable the security stuff , how did you check injectors? an easy way is to either pull the distributor or use another one and plug it in with the ignition on , if you spin the distributor by hand you will hear the injectors clicking...

the steel carrier wont locate , the two pins just rest on the shoulder , I run the exact same bearing now after replacing the plastic vn one, the whole lot shouldn't spin

back in the day when I turboed my 304 injected motor in my blue vk grpA rep I used factory cast manifolds flipped forward and mounted the turbo at the front ill find some pics , was more of an experiment , I used a factory garret TA45 turbo off some old international truck , with everything...

just to add something , anyone know of a complete after market kit that has been successfully fitted that might be an easier option than sourcing factory stuff? now I got my motor all running ( cant believe it fired straight up) my better half mentioned putting aircon in it , I scoffed at first...

this guy has a lot of expensive stuff on trademe , I'm pretty sure he has tried to sell these of for the last couple of years , possibly even a forum member?

I always thought you were meant to have a gap , how wrong was I , regardless of what clutch fork or bearing they are mean to run all the time , this is straight from my hook up at Clutch Industries , that burnt look on the pressure plate fingers is from the bearing constantly trying to speed up...

well I had the same thing , throwing PS belts every time I saw more than 6,000rpm was a real pain , even after lining the pulley up all nice a square I still threw belts , my fix was a a double pulley on the water pump and run the belt the same as the alternator , this fixed my issue straight...

well here's a win for anyone else out there that might have used these pistons , don't want to buy forged pistons or the horrible factory pistons and need something to match the weight of the now discontinued ACL race series pistons (the ones with Larry Perkins on the box) I bought the Hypatec...

get yourself another distributer and plug it in to the the little 3 pin plug , with ignition on spinning the distributor by hand makes the injectors all click , remember bank injection so all 4 on one side will click then all 4 on the other side , that's how I diagnosed an over fueling issue on...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kx3dbpkaf8wovc7/special%20final_mirrored.stl?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/nvgu2c56sfv2olw/special%20final%20fixed%20final.stl?dl=0 left and right , scanned these for a friend and will be printing them in a fancy sls nylon printer , so anyone at home with a desk top...

https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/towie-in-dock-over-113kmh-joyride/Q7JF2M4AD76N4E42NN7J6TLBLI/ this cracked me up back in the day , I used to worked just down the road from these meat heads and often saw then thrashing impounded vehicles after hours

righto thanks for the info , the seal that looks like its been ground for is a 2 piece small block chev / 202 rear main shaft dia 2.431" ID and a 2.812" od , may have to machine the lip it sits on in the cap and block , but at 50 bucks it is cheap

so lots of searching but cant find a definitive answer , does anyone know what you machine out off a rope seal block to use a neoprene seal? my 304 block has a good old rope that never leaked , but my crank is stuffed after running a big end and its already 30" under , I got another crank thats...

https://www.rodshop.com.au/engine-conversion-kit-for-ls-engines-on-road-kit-i~240099 some pointers here

I'm in the process of modifying MX5 mazda regultors to fit the back windows , waiting for them to come in , not sure if they will work , got lots of time to try these out because i wrecked my engine last drag meeting

I used for my VK most likely the same?

when I injected my other vk with a 304 I just used fuel tank out of a VL and the return lines , of course these might all be a little small for anything over 300hp but pump is easy to upgrade as it mounts externally on the outside with a lift pump on the inside , I also found vn holdens had a...

So fathers day Drags was the big test for the gearbox and all my homemade adaptors , running a full DOT slick ( 26 x 11.5 x 15") made for some brutal hook ups slack times 13.7 was my best , pretty bad , was a bit hairy mid track , could feel car swaying a lot even with 12psi in the slicks 60fts...

well road test went really well , ratios are perfect , Im running corvette rims 225/50/16 and 4.11 diff ratio At 100km/hr Im doing around 1900rpm in 6th 1st through to 4th is really good and close so really ideal for the track shifts really crisp and smooth even with the horrible short shift...

so almost all going, just have to mount the pulse ring for the speedo, so far all looks and works good on the hoist, goes through all gears really well, might make the gearstick a bit longer as its really short shifting and asking for missed gear changes

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k4xd724v5w05r6y/VK-Commodore-Workshop-Manual.pdf?dl=0 you want page 438

I sold my project vk for $17,000 nzd , was a good shell no rust but had been hit in the back and front right corner but was repaired pretty good from what I could see , I sold this about 6 months ago , injected 304 , toploader , certed , needed full respray and glass etc put back together, the...

so before I fully bolted everything in I decided to fix my Exxon Valdez of an oil leak all around the sump, the cork gasket was burnt and everything was finger tight, might explain the constant scum all over the bottom of the car, got a 1 piece silicon sump gasket from Aus so hopefully this is...

this piece of s*%t x5 BMW my wife had used a 20" steely spacesaver and it did have big brakes but prob not as big as GTS, could be an option? plus the center hole will be to big I think so would need a center ring

well as luck would have it , the gearbox cross member is most likely the easiest one I have ever had to make, factory cross member, factory TR6060 mount, two holes drilled in factory cross member and presto it all bolts straight up, all the right height so all I really did was drill two holes...

I right click the image on my desktop , edit with paint, reduce size to 10-20% of the original and save, the pics come from my old S6 samsung which takes a good pic but way to large to host, if images ever get to be and issue ill post them all to my google photos and share the link also an...

so finally last bit of welding finished, this dam bellhousing had no kind of mounting for the clutch cable, and the pivot point for the clutch fork was way off as well, is got Graham Berry Race cars cast into it, probably really old, but had plenty of meat to tap a new pivot point and it welds...

ha ha here you go so a rusty old "flat finger" pressure plate i found in my scrap vs the "raised finger" i pulled from my vk, big difference new 304 vn pressure plate heaps more clearance for release bearing so my Frankenstein bellhousing, milling the mating face to block showed only 10mm...

small update, turns out i have been running a "raised finger" pressure plate, this would explain why its all really always been a right ass to adjust, only found this because after I have milled the bellhousing there is no way I could make the release bearing/pressure plate work, just had a vn...

so I can now confirm this all fits in with no modification to the tunnel at all, no hammering, no cutting , nothing hits at all, lots of room around the top and sides Because I got the box that would have had a stupid dual mass the spline is a little short, I may have to make another flywheel or...

been a while, took forever to get the little struts that go in to the synchro's but most the stuff is here now, gearbox cleaned up really good, just got to finish installing the tailshaft gears and reverse, now that covid has wrecked any drag racing coming up till sept ill try and get this all...

my diff has disc rear with handbrake drum, pretty sure all holdens had this shitty setup, its fun when the drum components all fly to bits when you are doing big skids and destroy themselves to bits, the live axle skyline had a handbrake on disc set up

i went through all of this, supercheap bearings and even Timkin bearings gave all around 4-5mm of slop, really crappy and annoying, I ended up making some shims to preload the bearings enough to stop the play, this is a factory borgwarner disc/drum v8 diff in my vk calais

pulled gearbox right down, not to bad of an exercise, actually a bit easier than the old toploader I used to run in my other vk waiting for some 100# glass bead to blast the casings nice and clean on the outside all the surface rusty stuff on the gears pretty much just wipes off all the rebuild...

so almost prototyped the shifter, be ready to complete this soon gearbox is almost apart, despite the heat and melted components the gears are not blue and look pretty good bellhousing all finished up so far so good

so heres a quick drawing based off the centre line of the gearbox , im almost there to drill all of this so will update once complete