WH_Graham
New Member
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- Mar 30, 2024
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- Location
- Perth
- Members Ride
- WH Series II V8 Caprice 2002
I very rarely drive at night anymore but had to last week. When I opened the door, I noticed the dome light didn't come on. Neither did the foot-well lights or door panel light.
Checked it the next day and the 10A fuse F6 had blown. Replaced it and it blew again. So tried a 15A one and it didn't blow. This enabled me to check the voltage coming from pin 24 of the BCM at the dome light itself, which should have been ground, but was 12V. So I thought, okay the timer circuit has gone kaput and is open circuit.
The two diagrams I am working from are https://via.gdn/uploads/interior-lights.jpg and https://via.gdn/uploads/level-ride.jpg
The console, glovebox and vanity mirror lights worked, but nothing else. I noticed the Interior Illumination Relay was getting hot, which is why the fuse blew I guess. When I pulled it, the normally open contact pins were very hot.
I measured the current to manually put a ground on the dome light and it was more than 10A. This didn't make much sense, since the diagram indicates a failed timer would disconnect pin 24 and leave it floating, hence the 12V.
So I pulled F8 and the level-ride relay, in case something in that circuit was messing things up, but it made no difference.
I had previously been to three auto electricians and none wanted to get involved. They said nothing would show up on the scanner and getting at the BCM involved pulling half the dashboard apart. Not to mention getting another BCM was probably unlikely.
So, I guess my question is in three parts. Why is more than 10A being drawn through F6? And if I need a new BCM, what information do I need to get one? And where would I get one from?
Obviously, I can't access the part number and I don't know if something has to be recoded when you do change it. Hopefully, someone here can help with the first question and, if necessary the other two.
Having just spent over $9,000 having all the mechanical and engine problems fixed, this was the last thing I needed. While I can live with no lights, a dying BCM could leave me stranded somewhere.
Checked it the next day and the 10A fuse F6 had blown. Replaced it and it blew again. So tried a 15A one and it didn't blow. This enabled me to check the voltage coming from pin 24 of the BCM at the dome light itself, which should have been ground, but was 12V. So I thought, okay the timer circuit has gone kaput and is open circuit.
The two diagrams I am working from are https://via.gdn/uploads/interior-lights.jpg and https://via.gdn/uploads/level-ride.jpg
The console, glovebox and vanity mirror lights worked, but nothing else. I noticed the Interior Illumination Relay was getting hot, which is why the fuse blew I guess. When I pulled it, the normally open contact pins were very hot.
I measured the current to manually put a ground on the dome light and it was more than 10A. This didn't make much sense, since the diagram indicates a failed timer would disconnect pin 24 and leave it floating, hence the 12V.
So I pulled F8 and the level-ride relay, in case something in that circuit was messing things up, but it made no difference.
I had previously been to three auto electricians and none wanted to get involved. They said nothing would show up on the scanner and getting at the BCM involved pulling half the dashboard apart. Not to mention getting another BCM was probably unlikely.
So, I guess my question is in three parts. Why is more than 10A being drawn through F6? And if I need a new BCM, what information do I need to get one? And where would I get one from?
Obviously, I can't access the part number and I don't know if something has to be recoded when you do change it. Hopefully, someone here can help with the first question and, if necessary the other two.
Having just spent over $9,000 having all the mechanical and engine problems fixed, this was the last thing I needed. While I can live with no lights, a dying BCM could leave me stranded somewhere.
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