4l60e return line

[sydsider]

Im doing it this way.

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/transmission-fluid-change.32283/
I left the engine running for about 15sec max. I did it in 5sec increments. So start: 5sec: then stop x3. You do not need much more than that. IF you are worried about not leaving the transmission operating without any fluid, while you have it draining, you can put a funnel and keep topping it up from the top. That way fluid will always circulate and it will also give a more thorough flush (you can stop filling until you see the new fluid coming out of the cooling pipe). That way is better, (which I should have done btw) but you will need at least an extra 2-3L of fluid for the flushing.
Give or take I must have flushed out about 7L of transmission fluid. That is NOT including about ~0.5L in the oil pan and probably a bit more in the old filter (was pretty heavy compared to the new one). So yeah adding all that up I would say I was pretty close to the full 7.9L.
5L will not be enough for a full fill. Make sure you get 2 bottles just in case.
I bought the car on the 50,000K mark and it has done 150,000K so far and I have never changed trans oil. The difference is noticeable. Make sure you check the oil pan after a few days for any leaks etc...

 

[sydsider]

Ive had 12 litres of AC Delco Dex3 sitting in the boot waiting to be done for 6 months.
The weathers gonna turn cold after Friday in Sydney so if i dont do it Thursday or Friday it wont get done till it warms up again.
Im gettin lazier by the second.

 

[sydsider]

To make sure cooler in bottom of radiator gets flushed as well i found this.
https://cpt4l60e.com/4l60e-transmission-cooler-line-flow/

 

[sydsider]

So if i want the fluid in the cooler in the bottom of the radiator to be flushed out as well, the return line from the tranny would need to remain connected to the radiator from the tranny, and the other line would need to be disconnected.
So the fluid would actually be flowing out of the radiator cooler to return to the tranny, facing back towards the engine. Just have to remove circlip and disconnect pipe in engine bay and put it in something to drain it out from there..
Im always looking for the easiest way out.

 

[rjp]

Too much mucking around (and risk) for my liking.

I take mine to my gearbox expert; $250 for the service, flush and check, $10 or so for the coffee and bacon and egg roll while I wait....

The only thing I have to clean is the BBQ sauce off of my fingers from the roll...

 

[Ginger Beer]

I

Too much mucking around (and risk) for my liking.

I take mine to my gearbox expert; $250 for the service, flush and check, $10 or so for the coffee and bacon and egg roll while I wait....

The only thing I have to clean is the BBQ sauce off of my fingers from the roll...

I like the cut of your jib sir

 

[Fu Manchu]

Too much mucking around (and risk) for my liking.

I take mine to my gearbox expert; $250 for the service, flush and check, $10 or so for the coffee and bacon and egg roll while I wait....

The only thing I have to clean is the BBQ sauce off of my fingers from the roll...

You had me at bacon.

 

[sydsider]

Pumped out five and a half litres from the rubber cooler pipe in engine bay. Its the one on the right when standing in front of the car. Took the circlip off and disconnected it, and it came out from the radiator towards tranny, and had an oil tray underneath while directing the rubber hose pipe into it. It runs through the tranny, then radiator cooler, then out to be drained through the rubber part of the pipe into the oil tray. Because the other way is the reverse, which wouldnt flush the radiator cooler of the previous LS Dex6 fluid im trying to get most of it out.
The method was turning ignition on several times for about five seconds with a minute between startups till spluttering every time. No reading on the dipstick after the last five second splutter. Then filled up four litres of AC Delco Dex3 fluid to flush and got three litres out in the oil tray after above start stop method. So thats about nine and half litres drained out and flushed. Put 1-2 accumulator alluminium piston and o ring in to replace the plastic piston original which cracks eventually they reckon. The plastic one was intact New filter, gasket and put pan back on and refilled with five litres in cross hatch on dipstick. Didnt solve the original problem of having to feather the accelerator for a second sometimes to get it to upshift as it should be doing, but got the LV Dex6 oil out.

So the search for the solution to the feathering of the accelerator sometimes to get it to do what its supposed to do continues. This was a previous thread i started approx six months ago and still cant find out what it is. Have read that a leaking inlet manifold can play around with the gear changes and i bought the car with what i suspect to be a leaking drivers side inlet manifold gasket that runs down the front of the engine and drips off the engine oil sump. Something about vaccum causing irregular shifting.

Ive changed the seals in the servo and replaced the 1-2 accumulator piston and o ring.
https://twincharlotte.com/30-common-4l60e-transmission-problems-repair-charlotte-nc/

1-2 shift does not happen at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise (see below).


3. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT (Wide Open Throttle); delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There’s a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accumulator housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced.



So thats next before i take off the valve body and go right through it.
No one in any forum that ive been to can answer this question.
Why does the accelerator need feathering to change from first to second sometimes?
If i dont feather it, it will still change as normal, but it revs out a little before it does change. If i feather it, it wont rev out a little and changes as normal.

Ill change the leaky inlet manifold gasket and take it from there.
Thats if its that and not something else from where the oil is leaking from.

 

[Immortality]

Changed gearing or the tune at all

 

[sydsider]

Changed gearing or the tune at all

No. I bought it like that 2 years ago.