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caliper bolts

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W Stobart

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So I once left a caliper bolt out totally, and you would be surprised, it didn't make much noise at all, well none whatsoever.
I only picked it up when I put it on the wheel aligner to wheel align it after a 5k job.
I did a 5 minute test drive and all.
When I saw it my heart sunk as I could've let it out, I was an apprentice at the time.
Again, which bolt was it? Depending on the caliper position one bolt out will mean the caliper forced into the wheel. The other bolt out will not.
 

Bay 13

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either a bolt fell out or they never put it back in, one is sheared off from the wheel after the caliper flipped and locked on destroying the assembly, are those tyers roadworthy? You say this could have killed someone but so called the lack of tread on your tyers, or are they track wheels?
 

W Stobart

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either a bolt fell out or they never put it back in, one is sheared off from the wheel after the caliper flipped and locked on destroying the assembly, are those tyers roadworthy? You say this could have killed someone but so called the lack of tread on your tyers, or are they track wheels
 

W Stobart

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Yet another nameless, clueless 'contributor' shooting the messenger. If the top caliper bolt had been left out the ute wouldn't have made it out of the workshop as the first brake application would put the caliper hard against the wheel. I have ordered a professional engineer's report. He looked at the pieces and advised the damage would have occurred very quickly after the caliper bolt had fallen out. Specifically anyone driving it would have had no time to listen to rubbing noises etc as has been alleged by half the 'experts' on this thread that I should have heard and done something. I will post it when I receive it.

Bay 13 this is the tyre. It is a Nitto street legal track tyre (road circuit not drag strip), I got a deal on them. It has been to the drag strip twice in its 16 years with me, never to a road circuit. Both times to get a trap speed (not an ET) after an engine modification. Trap speed is an accurate indicator of wheel power using the weight of the vehicle in a long established formula. Note the wear indicators are still not flush with the tread, worn but still safe. Use your brain before posting garbage.
 

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lout

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you better go back and edit your original photos
they are not the same tyres
1706311231838.png

1706311294662.png
 

W Stobart

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you better go back and edit your original photos
they are not the same tyres
View attachment 263401
View attachment 263402
And why is that? I took the pic of the undamaged tyre. Note the other 'expert' said "tyres" plural so I took a pic of the left tyre. I now show you the right tyre with the scrub damage and the wear marker still not flush with the tread. You are calling me a liar. I call you a total fwit and challenge you to apologize. The 'ignore' button is a joke when it tells you a fool has just posted so you have to look anyways.
 

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W Stobart

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Harrop is selling me a single caliper, they are horrified at the result of the installation. I removed the good caliper to paint it as the new one coming will also need paint. I set the torque wrench to 20 ft-lb to test the installation torque while removing which should be 80 ft-lb. The torque wench didn't even click before the bolts easily came loose. Yes, also no thread lock. Is it needed? The used parts I have to fix the damage showed blue thread lock on every bolt as I am doing with the repairs. I eagerly await the next idiot post.
 

vc commodore

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So everyone that has offered any sort of advise is an expert idiot posting clueless information..

So it begs the question...Why post asking questions when we are all idiots?

Oh and from a clueless idiot that deals with rubber....The picture @lout posted of your right front tyre...It is legally bald.....Doesn't matter the tread is above the tread depth indicator in the centre....The outer edge clearly is below that, to the point the channels for the water are close to level with remainder of the tyre, therefore deeming the tyre unroadworthy..

Go show that tyre to a traffic copper and see what he says....I won't comment about using 16 year old tyres and how dangerous that is....But that's something that isn't deemed illegal unfortunately....

As for using lawyers for the issue at hand...I call B/S they won't sue for under $5K....They'll sue for any amount, providing they get a decent slice of the pie....

And even if you don't want to get lawyers involved, if the company involved with the installation is at fault, you can still take them to small claims court and get your money back if it is proven they are at fault....
 

losh1971

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Harrop is selling me a single caliper, they are horrified at the result of the installation. I removed the good caliper to paint it as the new one coming will also need paint. I set the torque wrench to 20 ft-lb to test the installation torque while removing which should be 80 ft-lb. The torque wench didn't even click before the bolts easily came loose. Yes, also no thread lock. Is it needed? The used parts I have to fix the damage showed blue thread lock on every bolt as I am doing with the repairs. I eagerly await the next idiot post.
If torqued correctly it shouldn't be needed.
 

chrisp

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If torqued correctly it shouldn't be needed.

But the new OEM bolts come with thread locker (the pre applied stuff). I‘d say it is needed if reusing the bolts (which is explicitly against the manufacturer‘s service instructions).
 
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