[308] Changing the rear main seal

[RVK 355]

Danny i was telling your bro the other day about how i will have a rebuilt injected 5L for sale in coming up if your interested.

 

[DANNY8]

Danny i was telling your bro the other day about how i will have a rebuilt injected 5L for sale in coming up if your interested.

It was me u were telling about that motor lol.

I've bought ARP head studs, main studs and rod bolts which I wanna use on my block. Plus I wanna choose a nice cam for it, plus get some new pistons, so also wanna get it bored, honed and line bored (for the studs)....so I can put it together with all my new bits.

How much would ya be after for the motor? Coz my mate bought an EFI block dirt cheap (beat me to it by half hour), and as the chances of him rebuilding it are slim, I might be able to get him to buy ur rebuilt motor, and I'll get the block off of him cheap as! :thumbsup:

Unless I just buy ur motor and leave my ARP bolts in the cupboard.....I prolly don't need to use them anyways if it's pretty much stock.

Wat sort of things do ya do to these injected motors to get them to perform. I guess a cam and a tune, much else? I wanna keep the standard intake and heads tho.

BTW, just incase this sounds confusing, the motor I was referring to in my original post about the rear main seal is the 308 in our race car. And this post is referring to the injected motor in my VK.

Also Mondo did ya end up selling that efi vk loom?

 

[ari666]

oh and fyi, even tho the convo has moved to a different topic; i stumbled across a thing at bursons the other day called a "sneaky pete seal remover" its basically piano wire with some fittings on the ends so you can just take your main cap off, push the wire in under the crank and scissor the wire back and forth and it basically cuts the old seal out.

ill be buggered if i could figure out how you would get the new seal in but i thought it was a nifty idea.

ok, now back to the efi engine questions

 

[RVK 355]

It was me u were telling about that motor lol.

I've bought ARP head studs, main studs and rod bolts which I wanna use on my block. Plus I wanna choose a nice cam for it, plus get some new pistons, so also wanna get it bored, honed and line bored (for the studs)....so I can put it together with all my new bits.

How much would ya be after for the motor? Coz my mate bought an EFI block dirt cheap (beat me to it by half hour), and as the chances of him rebuilding it are slim, I might be able to get him to buy ur rebuilt motor, and I'll get the block off of him cheap as! :thumbsup:

Unless I just buy ur motor and leave my ARP bolts in the cupboard.....I prolly don't need to use them anyways if it's pretty much stock.

Wat sort of things do ya do to these injected motors to get them to perform. I guess a cam and a tune, much else? I wanna keep the standard intake and heads tho.

BTW, just incase this sounds confusing, the motor I was referring to in my original post about the rear main seal is the 308 in our race car. And this post is referring to the injected motor in my VK.

Also Mondo did ya end up selling that efi vk loom?

Oh woops, i totally thought it was ur bro. not to sure on price yet, cos i mite even sell it with a rebilt T700 but still trying to decide what to do.

yea mate the loom is lone gone.

 

[ari666]

I don't have one of those Sneaky Pete tools, so was gonna pull the crank out,

oh my god, i am such a dumb-arse

 

[v8_bomberdore]

wen i did my rear main , my merchanic told me he had to drop the crank to get the new seal back in, he said it was impossible to get back in without doing it

 

[DANNY8]

With the rear main seal, does it have to be cut to length? I've heard soaking it in oil overnight is the way to go so will go do that now b4 I head off to work. But yeah is there anything we should know about fitting it? It's a rope seal. Does it need any sealant?

 

[leigh 7005]

yea danny the 304 rods are stronger than 308 and have already got bigger rod bolts.yep rope seal has to be cut to length soked in oil i put sealant on the ends when theare in and cut

 

[DANNY8]

Thx mate.....chucked the bottom end back 2gether the other day. Googled it and all I could really find out from other people who have done it is to soak it in oil for a few hours, and not to cut it right down to the cap face, but leave a fraction on it....so did that.

 

[DANNY8]

Well the bottom end and rear main seems to be fine.....but only got a practice run and halfway through the first race on Sunday and the diff locked up lol. Forgot to top it up, we knew it had a leak but yeah forgot. It was even smoking so it must have got fairly hot.

Now gonna get another diff built. I did buy some 4.11's for the racecar, but ended up getting them put in my wagon diff lol...so bought another set 2day, and as we're not sure wat borgy diff is in the car at the moment, we might have to buy another minispool (spare diff is 25 spline, the one in the car at the moment might be a VN diff, so 28 spline).

Here's some short vids for ya's. I like documenting stuff :thumbsup:

Changing the bearings and rear main seal.
YouTube - Changing the rear main seal and bearings in the 308.

Motor running nice.
YouTube - PP806 308 back in and running.

The first and only race for Sunday.
YouTube - 06-09-09 PP 806 RACE1 EXTERNAL CAM

And the same race, but incar cam....still need to make a proper mount for it.
YouTube - 06 09 09 PP 806 RACE1 INCAR CAM