Chasing 400rwhp 355 or 383 stroker

[allan01]

G'day legends

As stated I am on a mission to get close to 400rwhp from my motor through an auto.

Firstly here is some background information on the motor, it is currently a 355 stroker with VN heads that have been ported a fair bit on the exhaust ports and light porting of the intake ports with standard valves, currently the camshaft is a small h284 with a set of crane roller rockers to help it out a little, the stroker kit is just your run of the mill scat kit with the contraversial chev style pistsons giving the motor 10.2.1 compression and currently making 304rwhp with a Harrop duel plane manifold running fuel injection.

Proposed upgrades: bigger valves and more head work mainly porting of the intake runners to support bigger valves, 11.1.1 compression, H304 cam kit that i already have so that's what it's getting, and finally I am going to either upgrade to a come racing 383 stroker kit i think that will definitely help get it to 400hp, or if I keep it 355 I was going to change the pistons to true flat tops and have it over bored to 60 thou oversize but that combo will be lucky to see 380rwhp I think, ultimately if I go with the 383 stroker kit i think it would be better for cruising and have heaps of torque down low with that cam, not keen on reving it past 6500

Keen to see what some of you gurus think, also I know a fair few of you blokes are going to be banging on about roller cams but it's not getting one so be it.

Cheers.

 

[losh1971]

For the money you will spend it would be with considering boost instead.

 

[Deuce]

COME 600 heads.
Big valves, big ports, big HP heads.
Plus alloy so handle high compression better, and will take more timing.
Then 383 it with that 11 comp in mind and you should be about right (I don't know alot about your intake manifold sorry).
What size extractors and exhaust on it?
Assume 4l60e?

Yeah boost is an option, but the crank alone (for boosted motor) will run you the same as the stroker.

Good luck my friend, watching with interest.

 

[gtrboyy]

Vortech & e85 will piss it in....could even have nice manners if lowered comp a tad.

60 thou is a big no-no
rev limiter is only way you'll keep it under 7k....any decent n/a stroker built correctly will rev like a mofo' if you try to have fun or it breaks traction.

Never said about driveline would definitely need 4k or higher stall convertor & 3.9-4.11 gears or no point trying if don't match it all up especially in something heavy.

I ran 10.7:1 355 stroker,cleaned up vn heads,f280 with harrop single plane/750dp...4500 stally/trimatic & 9 inch with 4.56 gears/27x11 tyres all in vh commodore...was tad wild on street & sure as fark did not make 400rwhp so figures don't mean much if it drives like a dog.

 

[Immortality]

You are limiting yourself with the cam kit, it's a large FT hydraulic but still a small cam in terms of overall specifications and a very old cam grind, there are much better grinds out there these days.

A 355 with good heads and a good cam should get you near abouts 400rwhp. Use a solid FT cam like the classis F280 or a more modern version should see you get there no problems.

Seems strange to rule out a hydraulic roller when you consider spending big coin on a 383 stroker and limit it with a H304 cam.

Basically, you want to build this,

450+ HP 355 street engine - a basic recipie.

This topic comes up every few weeks, the guy asking often wonders why they don't get many responses - the answer is simple, guys get sick of answering the same questions over & over. So here it is, this is the motor I would recommend for a guy walking in off the street wanting a street...

www.aussiev8.com.au

 

[Deuce]

You are limiting yourself with the cam kit, it's a large FT hydraulic but still a small cam in terms of overall specifications and a very old cam grind, there are much better grinds out there these days.

A 355 with good heads and a good cam should get you near abouts 400rwhp. Use a solid FT cam like the classis F280 or a more modern version should see you get there no problems.

Seems strange to rule out a hydraulic roller when you consider spending big coin on a 383 stroker and limit it with a H304 cam.

Basically, you want to build this,

http://[URL]https://www.aussiev8.co...0619-450-HP-355-street-engine-a-basic-recipie

[/URL]

If he is looking for 400 at the treads, I am thinking 520 at the motor.
That's why I think he HAS to go 383.
I'm not saying it'll make that with his particular intake, cam choice, and rev limit. But it'll give him his best shot at it.

 

[losh1971]

https://raptorsc.com.au/holden/commodore-vn-vs-s2-304-v8-short-kit/

If going this type I would think the crank the OP has will be ok?

 

[Ginger Beer]

If your not using boost to make power, use as many cubes as you can

It will make it more drivable and you won't need as big of a cam or to rev it as hard to make the same power

Apples and oranges: I wanted to make around 500hp atw in my LS1 VX SS street car, there was 4 options I looked at

1. PD Boost, easy, stock engine, excellent drivablity, instant power, but limited power due to stock internals......my power goal was also limited to my built transmission rated to 600hp

2. Turbo boost, fairly easy, stock engine, good drivablity, limited power due to stock internals and trans, boost comes in fairly quick

3. 383 Stroker kit and built, lots of time and parts, average drivablity, need to rev it hard to make the power

4. Standard stroke but built, lots of engine work, big cam, big revs, lots of time and parts, poor drivablity

I picked option 1 because I have never had a blower

Option 2: Turbo , whilst it has the ability to make huge power, has its own draw backs which I won't go into

Option 3: the stroker, was almost the one I chose, it was going to cost about the same as the HTV2300 drive in drive out, but, timeline for the build was months, not 4 days, 4 days was how long it took to fit and tune the HTV2300, plus I do alot of cruising in the car, so the PD had it over the turbo there

Option 4. Built for big cam and big revs, was going to cost nearly the same as the HTV drive in drive out, but like the stroker it needed months, and drivablity and longevity would be poor to say the least

To me option 1 was a no brainer, but fitting the biggest stroker I could find came a close 2nd

But for you, what disadvantage is there going the 383 over the 355, or even a 396 (also depends on year of engine used IRT water jackets, grout filling and welding)

Iron lion

 

[Immortality]

For on the street, a daily driver that has reasonable manners a PD blower wins every time and failing that option 2 is always more cubes but the OP is fixed on a cam that is going to limit what it's going to make.

 

[Ginger Beer]

For on the street, a daily driver that has reasonable manners a PD blower wins every time and failing that option 2 is always more cubes but the OP is fixed on a cam that is going to limit what it's going to make.

If no PD

All of cubes and a cam