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Chassis earth wire to battery melting plastic cover

Thymelord

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So i noticed my battery earth wire at the point of contact to the chassis has melted the cover plastic stuff... i changed the plastic thinking it could be a old issue. But it happended again within a week. I haven't drivin it longer than a hour at any 1 time. It appears to be getting hot enough to melt it but that's it. What do i do.? Greggorys Manual says nothing about it.
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chrisp

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So i noticed my battery earth wire at the point of contact to the chassis has melted the cover plastic stuff... i changed the plastic thinking it could be an old issue. But it happended again within a week. I haven't drivin it longer than a hour at any 1 time. It appears to be getting hot enough to melt it but that's it. What do i do.? Greggorys Manual says nothing about it.
View attachment 260152

A bad connection will have high resistance. A current flowing through that resistance will produce heat. So the problem isn’t the plastic, but the termination if the cable. It could be the wire-to-the-lug or the lug-to-the-body that was the original issue. But, because the whole lot has been at a high temperature, I would suggest replacing/fixing both. So, new lug (appropriately crimped or soldered) and clean up the area on the body that it attached to. (Then touch up the paint to prevent rusting).
 

vc commodore

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A bad connection will have high resistance. A current flowing through that resistance will produce heat. So the problem isn’t the plastic, but the termination if the cable. It could be the wire-to-the-lug or the lug-to-the-body that was the original issue. But, because the whole lot has been at a high temperature, I would suggest replacing/fixing both. So, new lug (appropriately crimped or soldered) and clean up the area on the body that it attached to. (Then touch up the paint to prevent rusting).

Agreed...Replace the whole lead and clean up the bolt on surface..Should fix the problem
 

Thymelord

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Cheers, i will do that and report back. Tia.
 

Thymelord

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I added a copper washer and cleaned the area also added a second ground from negative and the problem has not returned. Just another issue that's much worse.
 

Fu Manchu

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I added a copper washer and cleaned the area also added a second ground from negative and the problem has not returned. Just another issue that's much worse.
What’s the other issue?
 

Thymelord

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What’s the other issue?
I posted a question about it the other day. Basically my ls1 cylinder 1 isn't getting told to spark by ecu, so either a wire is damaged or ecu is possibly fried. When changing the alternator charging wire which was hanging on by 2 strands it kept shorting on the positive terminal and I think that might of damaged ecu. ?
 

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I posted a question about it the other day. Basically my ls1 cylinder 1 isn't getting told to spark by ecu, so either a wire is damaged or ecu is possibly fried. When changing the alternator charging wire which was hanging on by 2 strands it kept shorting on the positive terminal and I think that might of damaged ecu. ?
Could have but look at it this way, if you have a headache, it doesn’t mean your head has to be replaced.

What if you replace the most expensive thing, only to find it’s a splayed pin in a connector. Or a chaffed wire in the loom. Or a bad injector. Or a bad coil.

Get the simple stuff out of the way first.

What the heck were you doing fitting an alternator with the battery still connected?
 

Thymelord

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Could have but look at it this way, if you have a headache, it doesn’t mean your head has to be replaced.

What if you replace the most expensive thing, only to find it’s a splayed pin in a connector. Or a chaffed wire in the loom. Or a bad injector. Or a bad coil.

Get the simple stuff out of the way first.

What the heck were you doing fitting an alternator with the battery still connected?
Yeah nah, I had the bettery disconnected but when i was returning the positive to the battery I had to attach the alternator charge wire to the positive aswell and its a really short wire so it kept just touching slightly as I tried to connect that wire to the positive main wire and to the battery...
So i have checked these things... •power to coil from loom *12v on reds *14 engine running.
•Coil pack.
•leads
•Spark plug
•under bonnet fuses
•engine bay fuses/relays
There is no pulse to Coil pack from ecu like the other Coil packs receive. I'm going to get some new relays to re test them as my research has led me that way.
 

Thymelord

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Yeah nah, I had the bettery disconnected but when i was returning the positive to the battery I had to attach the alternator charge wire to the positive aswell and its a really short wire so it kept just touching slightly as I tried to connect that wire to the positive main wire and to the battery...
So i have checked these things... •power to coil from loom *12v on reds *14 engine running.
•Coil pack.
•leads
•Spark plug
•under bonnet fuses
•engine bay fuses/relays
There is no pulse to Coil pack from ecu like the other Coil packs receive. I'm going to get some new relays to re test them as my research has led me that way.
I wasn't replacing the alternator, I fixed the charge wire from alternator because it was frayed at the point of connection and causing mad resistance and heating up wire (original problem)
 
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