Crewman starting, but won't run

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

Are the the relays you are swapping out, the correct ones, as in the correct part number?

Yeah. By the looks of it all the relays are from factory. Have been swapping only the ones with the same part numbers on them.

 

[Fu Manchu]

The only way forward is with high end scan tools to physically see what all the circuits are doing. What is talking to what.

What is it that’s not receiving the ok to go.

Is it a security lock out where spark is cut? So coils would not be getting voltage.

Is it injectors being isolated?

Could be a faulty key.

Could be a faulty slip ring.

Could be faulty neutral Saftey switch.

Try it in neutral and see what happens.

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

The only way forward is with high end scan tools to physically see what all the circuits are doing. What is talking to what.

What is it that’s not receiving the ok to go.

Is it a security lock out where spark is cut? So coils would not be getting voltage.

Is it injectors being isolated?

Could be a faulty key.

Could be a faulty slip ring.

Could be faulty neutral Saftey switch.

Try it in neutral and see what happens.

Yeah. Thinking I might have to take it to a shop. The key/fob battery are near new. Reconnected the battery and can still lock and unlock fine from the keyless, so it recognises it atleast.
Will have to wait for the battery to charge again to try with it in neutral.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I’d suggest a closer look at the key.

Is it genuine? Does it have a Holden logo?

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

I’d suggest a closer look at the key.

Is it genuine? Does it have a Holden logo?

Short answer no. There is no logo on it. Got it replaced about 6moths ago from Mr minit.
Tried the original key, and samething. Think this has gone beyond what I am capable of diagnosing with my experience. Will try and get it to a shop and get someone to properly look at it.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Short answer no. There is no logo on it. Got it replaced about 6moths ago from Mr minit.
Tried the original key, and samething. Think this has gone beyond what I am capable of diagnosing with my experience. Will try and get it to a shop and get someone to properly look at it.

When you do, ask them what evidence they had for the diagnosis and what the data was like.

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

When you do, ask them what evidence they had for the diagnosis and what the data was like.

Yeah no worries. Was planning on posting once it was all fixed, what the actual fix was. Found a thread with what sounded like a similar problem. However, the solution was never posted. Think the OP got too caught up in something someone else was trying to explain, and the one person who might have been able to answer my problem sort of disappeared...

 

[lout]

sorry can we clarify the problem
wont crank, or only cranks for a second or two
a crank, no start
a start then stall (original problem)
starts and runs but no drive
if it is start then stall how long does it run for

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

sorry can we clarify the problem
wont crank, or only cranks for a second or two
a crank, no start
a start then stall (original problem)
starts and runs but no drive
if it is start then stall how long does it run for

So the problem:
Car will crank and start but will not run.
The car starts fine, even runs pretty smooth a few seconds after start, but after the 'start' the engine stalls.
I can also tap the throttle and get rev out of the motor, immediately after start, but then the engine cuts out straight after, even if I keep my foot on the throttle.
It seems to happen as the car switches from the battery to the alternator. Due to a slightl increased in rpm caused by the extra load, and can confirm as my volt gauge goes from 11/12 to 13v just before. I get no priming from the pump before start, however I have tested the pump wiring, relay and fuse, and just yesterday replaced the fuel pump and filter.
This might sound a bit stupid, but it seems as though the 'running' circuit for the engine isn't working. Have checked all fuses and can't find any blown ones. All other electronics work fine when the vehicle is turned on (dash, stereo, gauges, lights).

 

[Lex]

The car starts fine, even runs pretty smooth a few seconds after start, but after the 'start' the engine stalls.

It sounds like a vats problem to me?
Vats = vehicle anti theft system.