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Well the last couple weeks have been pretty stressful to say the least. First I bought a used 140A alt from a newer model VE and had planned to have a mate of mine chuck it in for a few bucks. I talked to everyone I could (online/auto elec/holden) and I started to have doubts about the 140A actually working.
The bracket looked the same but the plug was ever so slightly different and I couldn't get a clear, concise answer on whether it would actually work. It really wasn't the upgrade I was hoping for but I decided to go for a 120A alt that I was more confident would be a direct replacement for the old 100A. I figured it would at least be better than nothing and it was probably time to replace the 10 y/o used and abused alt anyways.
Now this is where my problems began. I had changed my mind on installing the 140A last minute but I wanted to keep to my appointed time with my mate, so I picked up a 120A from the first place that I could find. It was a generic alt but I thought that it wouldn't really matter.
I get the car back after installation and it appears to be fine, so no worries, right..? Wrong. I drive the car later that night and I immediately notice this constant, annoying strobe-like pulsating effect from the headlights & interior lights (music/accessories off).
I looked at the VE diagnostic menu and sure enough the voltage is swinging wildy between 13.9-15.1v, back and forth. I go for a little drive and let the car run a little bit and the fluctuations become less extreme but the lights flickering is still visibly noticeable. I was fairly peeved becuase I could have saved my money and left the old alt in there and had better results but that's life I guess. Maybe I just got unlucky but I won't be going generic for alternators in the future, that's for sure.
The 2nd go around I took the time to find a genuine 120A GM alt (A003TG4091) which I was told would be a suitable replacement for the original 100A that came with my car (A003TG3991). Long story short, I had the new alt installed today and its like night and day. I got a steady 14.4V all the way home, with the occasional peak or drop +/-0.1 either way. Another difference is that the car will actually go into the battery float mode like it should and drop to a steady and consistent low 13V, slowly leveling out to a high 12V, whereas the old one would seemingly just fluctuate wildy in the 14V area no matter how long you've been driving.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, I f'ing hate this car. I mean I love it... But I seriously hate it. A lot. Everything is one big dick around with this car and certain info isn't as abundant as you'd expect for such a common and popular car. My tip, don't buy junk alternators like I did, spend the few extra bucks and take the time to find a quality OEM alt if you can and get it done right the first time.
Sorry to be diggin up old thread etcWell? my old mate it's now 2019 and I'm reading your post for the first time and it worries me that you are trying to modify the original system without consulting with a professional (Auto Electrician) that would have been my first port of call before I did anything, or I would have recommended it to you as your starting point. It wasn't the car that dicked you around, it was you dicking around with the car, you even mentioned it in your post (the car is over 10 years old, you bought parts not knowing of they would work or not, and you proceed to blame the car) I would have thought (speaking as an alternator now) after ten years working my ass off that I would be getting a little tired (my diodes, or brushes usually fail) but hey? I'm a part that never gets serviced and only gets replaced (or refurbished) so please GIVE ME A BREAK! Hahahaha
Anyway, glad to hear you finally fixed the issue with a genuine part.
the V6 alternator is rated @ 155A?According to the VE workshop manual, the VE alternator is rated at 155amps ????