HarmlessMuffinMan
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Woah! Nice write up dude! Absolutely awesome xD
Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.
[VR-VS] How to replace the front struts.
- Thread starter Brett_jjj
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Hengro
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help!!
Did anybody else have any trouble with this, particularly with tightening the piston rod bolt and and the nut (on top of locating washer)? how do you torque it to specs if you use 2 ring spanners? thanks in advance
Did anybody else have any trouble with this, particularly with tightening the piston rod bolt and and the nut (on top of locating washer)? how do you torque it to specs if you use 2 ring spanners? thanks in advance
one_and_only2004
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You can't torque it with ring spanners, you need a torque wrench.
Paul13pp
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Started changing the struts and some nolathane bushes on my VS today.
No problem dismantling the passenger side.
Got the strut out complete with the lower control arm and Z bar.
Most of the suspension rubbers are badly perished and split.
Managed to get the two pressed in bushes out from the control arm with a bit of threaded rod, some nuts and washers and a big socket.
Saves walking down town to a mechanical shop that has a press.
The rubber boots supplied as replacements for the struts are an abomination and half the size of the original ones and won't fit so I will have to source at least one replacement due to it being split on one side of the car.
Be careful what you purchase when it comes to these rubber boots for the struts because it seems common to be supplied the wrong ones. The things are not even made out of rubber, rather some sort of plastic!
So I get to the strut top mount part which falls apart and bearings go everywhere :spew:
The rubber has also come away from the metal insert here and is left on the old strut, so I will need to get at least one new one of these before I can put it all back together. (Supercheap want over $200 and don't stock the item by the way)
Now I know where that rattle noise was coming from driving over speed bumps etc....
I like the way the nolathane bushes are simple to fit, and service in the future, unlike the original bushes.
No problem dismantling the passenger side.
Got the strut out complete with the lower control arm and Z bar.
Most of the suspension rubbers are badly perished and split.
Managed to get the two pressed in bushes out from the control arm with a bit of threaded rod, some nuts and washers and a big socket.
Saves walking down town to a mechanical shop that has a press.
The rubber boots supplied as replacements for the struts are an abomination and half the size of the original ones and won't fit so I will have to source at least one replacement due to it being split on one side of the car.
Be careful what you purchase when it comes to these rubber boots for the struts because it seems common to be supplied the wrong ones. The things are not even made out of rubber, rather some sort of plastic!
So I get to the strut top mount part which falls apart and bearings go everywhere :spew:
The rubber has also come away from the metal insert here and is left on the old strut, so I will need to get at least one new one of these before I can put it all back together. (Supercheap want over $200 and don't stock the item by the way)
Now I know where that rattle noise was coming from driving over speed bumps etc....
I like the way the nolathane bushes are simple to fit, and service in the future, unlike the original bushes.
Paul13pp
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Done and dusted.
Replaced both front struts, and all the old rubber bushes for Whiteline equivalents.
Also changed the power steering rack while under the car.
The rack is easy as to swap over, heaps easier and lighter than lifting the strut assembly up in to place on your own.
I notice you removed the front brake disks Brett, which is not necessary but would make things easier weight and skin (cuts) wise.
Great 'how to' you have put together.... certainly helped this way thanks!
Wheel alignment booked for next Wednesday, even though the car steers and drives straight after all the new bits.
I noticed the old struts were stamped 'Monroe' with a date of March 1996... originals.
Repco currently have a special on for aftermarket rubber top strut mounts with a new bearing for $60. $120 a pair.
One of the bigger auto stores in the area here quoted me $260 for a pair of rubber ones with bearings! Their business name starts with a B.
Have to wait a week now to get in for the alignment before I can go see how much difference the feel is around corners and on the highway.... don't wanna destroy my brand new front tyres.
With the new standard height gas Monroe struts, the front end is actually noticeably higher with quite a gap between the top of the tyre to the guard.
Might have to keep my eyes out for some larger wheels down the track.
Rear springs and shocks are next on the agenda.
Replaced both front struts, and all the old rubber bushes for Whiteline equivalents.
Also changed the power steering rack while under the car.
The rack is easy as to swap over, heaps easier and lighter than lifting the strut assembly up in to place on your own.
I notice you removed the front brake disks Brett, which is not necessary but would make things easier weight and skin (cuts) wise.
Great 'how to' you have put together.... certainly helped this way thanks!
Wheel alignment booked for next Wednesday, even though the car steers and drives straight after all the new bits.
I noticed the old struts were stamped 'Monroe' with a date of March 1996... originals.
Repco currently have a special on for aftermarket rubber top strut mounts with a new bearing for $60. $120 a pair.
One of the bigger auto stores in the area here quoted me $260 for a pair of rubber ones with bearings! Their business name starts with a B.
Have to wait a week now to get in for the alignment before I can go see how much difference the feel is around corners and on the highway.... don't wanna destroy my brand new front tyres.
With the new standard height gas Monroe struts, the front end is actually noticeably higher with quite a gap between the top of the tyre to the guard.
Might have to keep my eyes out for some larger wheels down the track.
Rear springs and shocks are next on the agenda.
crumpledoor#1
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Great post. Helped a lot. Just replaced my strut bearings and rubbers, tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links. Vast improvement, just need a wheel alignment.
I didnt need two people to put the struts back in and no problems lining them up.
I didnt need two people to put the struts back in and no problems lining them up.
wils6
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hi.
I have vs commodore and the end of shock absorber has come up into the bonnet to the extent that it has dinted the bonnet and has cracked the paint. I havent investigated into the situtaion yet but i think i may need a new strut. Ive been looking at the brand Blupac and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this brand before? Is it a good brand or not?
thanks.
I have vs commodore and the end of shock absorber has come up into the bonnet to the extent that it has dinted the bonnet and has cracked the paint. I havent investigated into the situtaion yet but i think i may need a new strut. Ive been looking at the brand Blupac and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this brand before? Is it a good brand or not?
thanks.
greenacc
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Nice write up, but #### you made a meal of the top nut on the strut.
You can often loosen that nut quite easily with a breaker bar before you jack it up. Just pop the bonnet while the car is still on the ground, slip a socket on the top nut and give it a yank with the breaker bar. The weight of the car on the spring helps stop it spinning. Loosen it a few turns then proceed to jack it up and remove the strut.
You can often loosen that nut quite easily with a breaker bar before you jack it up. Just pop the bonnet while the car is still on the ground, slip a socket on the top nut and give it a yank with the breaker bar. The weight of the car on the spring helps stop it spinning. Loosen it a few turns then proceed to jack it up and remove the strut.
Brett_jjj
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Im not 100% sure exactly what your referring to saying "Nice write up but you made a meal of the top nut on the strut". Ive never had any trouble removing the top nuts off the struts, and I certainly didnt have any trouble removing these ones in the pics. As the pics show, I just use two ring spanners to undo the strut top nut, had it undone in seconds with no trouble at all.