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KaneoLS+3.8

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Hey guys bit of dumb question, but I’m about to start a teardown of an ecotec and I’ve just found a full gasket kit in the shed I had. No I’m thinking I might give it a freshen up and give it all new gaskets. Is there anything I need to mark or look out for when doing the teardown? I’ve got all my torque specs and a basic idea but any help would be muchly appreciated.

Cheers guys
 

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If you decide to split the tail shaft for whatever reason, put a matching mark on both halves before you do it so it balances properly when you bolt it back together.
 

KaneoLS+3.8

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If you decide to split the tail shaft for whatever reason, put a matching mark on both halves before you do it so it balances properly when you bolt it back together.
I’m hoping I won’t have to but I appreciate the info mate, I’ll keep that handy for if I do
 

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If the engines out may aswell do all the Welch plugs. Use all the right sealants and so on before putting anything new in.

Did a similar freshen uplast year, didn't touch rotating assembly (cam, crank, pistons etc) or heads off, but have a look in the bores and all that.
Spend the time to clean everything up.

Take lots of before photos and so on too.
Super handy if you can't remember how a cable ran or similar.
 

KaneoLS+3.8

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If the engines out may aswell do all the Welch plugs. Use all the right sealants and so on before putting anything new in.

Did a similar freshen uplast year, didn't touch rotating assembly (cam, crank, pistons etc) or heads off, but have a look in the bores and all that.
Spend the time to clean everything up.

Take lots of before photos and so on too.
Super handy if you can't remember how a cable ran or similar.
Cheers mate completely forgot about Welch plugs. I plan to do a proper clean and re con the heads aswell. Plus full gasket kit.
 
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If the engine is still in the car and running grab a couple of cans of degreaser and go to town on it somewhere where you won't be working on it or take it down to the local car wash etc. Working on a clean engine is much nicer than one that's covered in **** like I did last year.

If the heads are coming off you will need new head bolts. Head gaskets are specific, Left and Right.
Rockers will need new bolts to as they are also TTY. You can get cap screws from a local engineering shop for these instead of expensive genuine bolts.
Make sure you lubricate the main seals (front and rear) before installing so they don't run dry on first start up.
Have a good look at the push rods and lifters cups (for the push rods), these tend to wear out the push rod tips.
 

KaneoLS+3.8

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How do you view it? Tried it through the mega app but now it just keeps crashing when I try to open it.
If the engine is still in the car and running grab a couple of cans of degreaser and go to town on it somewhere where you won't be working on it or take it down to the local car wash etc. Working on a clean engine is much nicer than one that's covered in **** like I did last year.

If the heads are coming off you will need new head bolts. Head gaskets are specific, Left and Right.
Rockers will need new bolts to as they are also TTY. You can get cap screws from a local engineering shop for these instead of expensive genuine bolts.
Make sure you lubricate the main seals (front and rear) before installing so they don't run dry on first start up.
Have a good look at the push rods and lifters cups (for the push rods), these tend to wear out the push rod tips.
You’re an absolute legend mate, thank you so much for the info. Been awhile since I’ve done anything like this, glad I asked on the forum.
 
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