VF Parking Brake Issue

[VF300k]

The VF EPB module (which IIRC contains the logic board and the motor) sits on top of the rear cradle that holds the diff, control arms and wheels.

As such the drive shaft and whole rear end must be dropped just to get access to replace that module (lots of $$$ for the labour and some consumables)

If I can hear it engaging, would it be safe to say that it’s not the EPB module?

have got it on charge now as battery saver mode was kicking in and few other things have started giving me issues (no rear parking camera, radio stations not saving etc)

Was due to book it in for a solid service anyway, don’t mind putting a bit into this as the body is straight as for a car that’s done 280’000ks, no leaks etc

 

[Skylarking]

If I can hear it engaging, would it be safe to say that it’s not the EPB module?

I don’t think you can categorically say that.

I haven’t opened up a module myself so can’t say whether the motor can turn and it’s something else inside the module which is seized up and stopping the park brake wire from being applied fully.

Can’t say whether it’s the cable from the module to the brake drum that has stretched too much and is outside the operating l8 it’s of the EPB and thus doesn’t allow correct park brake lining pressure to be applied.

Cant say whether it’s something in the drum side that’s seized and stopping the park brake from actually applying (or self adjusting) when the cable is pulled by the electric motor.

And I can’t say whether the park brake friction lining is prematurely worn out because of park brake issues caused by the electronics.

Something along the chain from the electronic switch through to the park brake linings isn’t working as it should. So the best approach is to follow the above process quoted by Phillbo as its straight out of the workshop manual.

Just keep in mind that what we are also wanting to check whether the park brake lining is within limits (Is there a sight hole?) and that the adjustment pawl can actually be turned to adjust the park brake linings in and out so you end up with the correct drag when no park brake applied (referenced as a specific diameter).

In old mechanical systems we’d check whether the brake wire has too much slack and whether it could be manually adjusted so its slackness was reasonable. If it couldn’t because it had stretched too much, we’d replace the hand brake cable. Similar logic applies with EPBs.

If that looks like too much, just try the park brake calibration process which should work if there isn’t a mechanical issue (something is seized) and the cable stretched isn’t too great and can be accommodated by the EPB. Doing such wont hurt anything.

 

[VF300k]

I don’t think you can categorically say that.

I haven’t opened up a module myself so can’t say whether the motor can turn and it’s something else inside the module which is seized up and stopping the park brake wire from being applied fully.

Can’t say whether it’s the cable from the module to the brake drum that has stretched too much and is outside the operating l8 it’s of the EPB and thus doesn’t allow correct park brake lining pressure to be applied.

Cant say whether it’s something in the drum side that’s seized and stopping the park brake from actually applying (or self adjusting) when the cable is pulled by the electric motor.

And I can’t say whether the park brake friction lining is prematurely worn out because of park brake issues caused by the electronics.

Something along the chain from the electronic switch through to the park brake linings isn’t working as it should. So the best approach is to follow the above process quoted by Phillbo as its straight out of the workshop manual.

Just keep in mind that what we are also wanting to check whether the park brake lining is within limits (Is there a sight hole?) and that the adjustment pawl can actually be turned to adjust the park brake linings in and out so you end up with the correct drag when no park brake applied (referenced as a specific diameter).

In old mechanical systems we’d check whether the brake wire has too much slack and whether it could be manually adjusted so its slackness was reasonable. If it couldn’t because it had stretched too much, we’d replace the hand brake cable. Similar logic applies with EPBs.

If that looks like too much, just try the park brake calibration process which should work if there isn’t a mechanical issue (something is seized) and the cable stretched isn’t too great and can be accommodated by the EPB. Doing such wont hurt anything.

Yeah no dice with the adjustment, could hear it doing it’s thing but car can still be rolled in neutral with the EPB showing as on.

Not sure but I’m also getting a “Battery Saver Mode” message pop up now and few other

I actually came across that post the other day, think it’s gotten better since then as I found the mechanical part online for around $40-ish

Guess next step is Jack up one side , take the wheel off and check the shoe

I don’t think you can categorically say that.

I haven’t opened up a module myself so can’t say whether the motor can turn and it’s something else inside the module which is seized up and stopping the park brake wire from being applied fully.

Can’t say whether it’s the cable from the module to the brake drum that has stretched too much and is outside the operating l8 it’s of the EPB and thus doesn’t allow correct park brake lining pressure to be applied.

Cant say whether it’s something in the drum side that’s seized and stopping the park brake from actually applying (or self adjusting) when the cable is pulled by the electric motor.

And I can’t say whether the park brake friction lining is prematurely worn out because of park brake issues caused by the electronics.

Something along the chain from the electronic switch through to the park brake linings isn’t working as it should. So the best approach is to follow the above process quoted by Phillbo as its straight out of the workshop manual.

Just keep in mind that what we are also wanting to check whether the park brake lining is within limits (Is there a sight hole?) and that the adjustment pawl can actually be turned to adjust the park brake linings in and out so you end up with the correct drag when no park brake applied (referenced as a specific diameter).

In old mechanical systems we’d check whether the brake wire has too much slack and whether it could be manually adjusted so its slackness was reasonable. If it couldn’t because it had stretched too much, we’d replace the hand brake cable. Similar logic applies with EPBs.

If that looks like too much, just try the park brake calibration process which should work if there isn’t a mechanical issue (something is seized) and the cable stretched isn’t too great and can be accommodated by the EPB. Doing such wont hurt anything.

Yeah no dice with the adjustment, could hear it doing it’s thing but car can still be rolled in neutral with the EPB showing as on.

will let the battery fully charge overnight and see if anything changes, voltage was around 12.2

I actually came across that post about the mechanical adjuster the other day, think it’s gotten better since then as I found the mechanical part online for around $40-ish

Guess next step is Jack up one side , take the wheel off and check the shoe and adjuster.

holden do have a service special for 249 at the moment for fluids, inspection and check for outstanding factory updates, given the camera menu is missing parking lines might be something I look at just to get the once over and the update installed

 

[lmoengnr]

If it's done 280000kms, it probably worth removing the rear rotors and eyeballing the mechanism, the adjusters and the shoe on each wheel.

 

[VF300k]

If it's done 280000kms, it probably worth removing the rear rotors and eyeballing the mechanism, the adjusters and the shoe on each wheel.

Yeah lots of country Kms, think I’ll try to get it up on the Jack this week and eyeball the shoe and mechanism

Here’s the ones I’ve found

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1652202...486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[greenacc]

Yeah lots of country Kms, think I’ll try to get it up on the Jack this week and eyeball the shoe and mechanism

Here’s the ones I’ve found

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1652202...486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I would be surprised if there was a problem with the mechanism. Don't see how it could be worn out when all it does is sit there and watch the drum go round and round.
My guess is you are turning the adjuster the wrong way making it looser not tighter, or just not adjusting hard enough. It is a painful little thing to get right.
If you chock the wheels and get under the car and watch while someone applies handbrake you should see some movement in the cable?

 

[Skylarking]

Yeah lots of country Kms, think I’ll try to get it up on the Jack this week and eyeball the shoe and mechanism

Here’s the ones I’ve found

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1652202...486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Good that the parts are available

The adjustment kit may not be needed if the existing system can be cleaned up and lubricated whether that’s possible or not you won’t know until you look

And the park brake shoe must be replaced when outside it’s allowable wear limit since it won’t be able to be adjusted correctly Again you won’t know until you look

Maybe you’d need both the adjustment kit and the shoes or may be you won’t need anything other than a clean up, lubrication and manual adjustment.

But if you check thing, the next logical check is whether the park brake drum inner diameter and the main brake rotor thickness are within limits

And all that must be checked before you look at the park brake cables length and finally at then the EPB module…

The old manual handbrake seems so much easier in comparison

 

[Skylarking]

Don't see how it could be worn out when all it does is sit there and watch the drum go round and round.

Not worn out as such but water ingress due to a failed rubber seal and poor protective metal coatings can result in corrosion that causes a failure (=seizure).

 

[chrisp]

Yeah lots of country Kms, think I’ll try to get it up on the Jack this week and eyeball the shoe and mechanism

Here’s the ones I’ve found

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1652202...486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I‘d be taking off the rotors and measuring the diameter of the hand brake shoe (without doing any prior adjustments). They should be around 189.8 mm. You might need to buy a 200mm digital caplier to accurately do the measurement.

If the diameter is way out, I’d be looking to see why, and why both sides are effected. Perhaps the adjusters aren’t working correctly? Are the shoes worn? I’m not familiar with the VF setup, but I’d be checking if the hand brakes are designed to automatically adjust for wear (by seeing if there is an automatic ratchet mechanism).

These pages out of the manual might be helpful…

 

[greenacc]

Good that the parts are available

The adjustment kit may not be needed if the existing system can be cleaned up and lubricated whether that’s possible or not you won’t know until you look

And the park brake shoe must be replaced when outside it’s allowable wear limit since it won’t be able to be adjusted correctly Again you won’t know until you look

Maybe you’d need both the adjustment kit and the shoes or may be you won’t need anything other than a clean up, lubrication and manual adjustment.

But if you check thing, the next logical check is whether the park brake drum inner diameter and the main brake rotor thickness are within limits

And all that must be checked before you look at the park brake cables length and finally at then the EPB module…

The old manual handbrake seems so much easier in comparison

Manual handbrake was a much better idea all together. A lot of the changes that manufacturer's made to cars in the past 10 years have been near useless and added nothing except complications and cost. The self parking nonsense on the VF is a prime example. I would happily do away with that in exchange for 25Nm of torque. I'd even swap both the electric handbrake and my link for the chrome window trim, leather steering wheel and another 25Nm of torque