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[VZ] VY & VZ Crewman & One Tonner roof sail plane panel removal

Fu Manchu

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90CC8C6A-BBFC-4C57-B4BD-6EDFDE453DD7.jpeg

These panels are really hard to remove. More fragile than a conspiracy theory.

First remove the two side panels. Take your sweet time with these. The ABS is fragile. The screws are around the inner rear doors.

0292B9E3-F4A2-4ACA-BFD2-733557C870DA.jpeg

Here’s what they look like from behind. You need to understand where the clips are. Note one has snapped off here.

DE9B33E7-6BFA-4BEF-80DC-686FA611ED7E.jpeg

Unfortunately I have measured this in gibberish. The clips are really hard to free.
 
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Fu Manchu

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Next is the top. It’s a MoFo.

Measure the centre point on the roof and the panel. Masking tape and make the marks on that.

F429021F-121F-41BD-9590-924AA5E39D56.jpeg

That sail plane is held down along the top edge with double sided tape. If only this stuff came apart as easy as my emotions while trying to free it up. It’s the grey grot you can see on the underside of the panel.

Slowly heat it up with a heat gun without going too silly. Or leave it in the summer sun for 10-15 seconds.

You want to use a wide, thin, flexible and sharp spatula to work along it gently prying it loose. Do not lift it. Do not force it. Just free it up. Best to run masking tape along the roof to prevent scratches and damage.

F429021F-121F-41BD-9590-924AA5E39D56.jpeg

In the black plastic panel, there is a hole in the centre. It’s for a locating tab from the sail plane.

That black panel is what the sail plane is clipped to. It is screwed to the body of the car. You can not access the screws
 
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Fu Manchu

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So next you want to mark the location of where the tabs are underneath. You can not see them. Do not bend the fragile part up to see them. Just don’t.

860C1039-FA08-447C-9456-1A55E0087ED5.jpeg

Start from the centre point. First tab is 70mm across from there. I have now measured in highly legible units of measure.

F9FE6FE2-FABA-4BAD-AAD7-00F7A8295390.jpeg

Then 145mm across from the last point.

9E6E2EFD-2147-4354-9653-D4BDCECEE08E.jpeg

Then 140-145mm across.

F9FE6FE2-FABA-4BAD-AAD7-00F7A8295390.jpeg

Then 145mm across.

750AF927-1329-42B2-9481-7CACA0374E45.jpeg

Last one at 145mm.

Same measurements going the other way across from the centre point.
 

Fu Manchu

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Here’s how the two bits fit together.
8A2F1572-7F59-4E97-AD00-5658139CFD4A.jpeg

This is just mocked up, not clipped together.
 

Fu Manchu

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Bugger. I think I muddled the sequence of these. Anyway next you will work at knocking the clips free. You will need a length of thin but strong, yet flexible metal like a crap ruler. I’ve used this bit of metal with gibberish printed on it. You can gauge the depth and location of the clips from the strange markings engraved on the metal.

EE59BED3-5B7C-4B97-9690-1829DEEB7098.jpeg

1st is the centre point.

B84F38C4-5481-46DA-BB23-223AF1520011.jpeg

6FF9561D-5D08-48B3-AFE3-D8DFE28824CE.jpeg

B37C5336-9052-4E8E-8859-9B825CEAD1CE.jpeg

9038B12C-1FAD-4D32-8AB4-C1D123FEBFE8.jpeg

I think that’s in order. If it’s not and that annoys you, get over yourself.
 

Fu Manchu

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So you’ll now need to cover the roof in something large like a blanket or your mum’s underpants. Just to protect it.

Work the flat bar metal in under and give the end a love tap with a hammer. You’ll be sweating bullets. Don’t use a screw driver. That’s stupid.
It needs to be knocked toward the back of the car.

Some flat bar aluminium would be a handy thing to use.

Make sure you note the depths of how far in they are at each point using the pictures above. Then you can have some idea that you have the tool on the clip tab.

Take your time.

Might be an idea to heat things up a bit to make things more flexible.

I started from the outer edge for this part. Worked my way across to the other side of the car.

Once the first row are free, you can lift it super carefully to have a squizz at locating the next row that sits a bit deeper in.

BF6E7E68-F11D-4E9D-A796-2E1E582E02EC.jpeg

All going well you get something like this. Easy to unscrew the ABS panel.

Give the whole lots a bloody good clean. I use sugar soap and a door frame paint brush.

0609F1A0-3755-425C-94F7-FC3925759364.jpeg

The screws must be sealed when reinstalling. Use K-Flex insulation tape. It’s closed cell. It’s available at Bunnings. Find it in trade or plumbing. This stuff is also what you should use when redoing vent ducting. Way better than the crap open cell foam.
 

figjam

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As per your usual how-to write-ups .......... good stuff.
Any chance of linking this thread to the others you have contributed to about the same subject ?
 

Fu Manchu

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As per your usual how-to write-ups .......... good stuff.
Any chance of linking this thread to the others you have contributed to about the same subject ?
Turn it up!
That’s heaps of work.
 

Fu Manchu

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I posted this for @OldSkoolGP and his US Crewman project.
I figure best to share it for others.
 
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