Recent content by jackcurrie

I know this questions been asked, but its a whole lot of research to get it exactly right. Basically, I want to lower my VY SPAC sedan on king springs. My car currently has non-factory springs, so I cant measure to find out exact size of the springs I need. Basically, I was running FE2...

I moved it, and drove it around for a couple of days - didnt notice much difference. Then on the way to work this morning my car stopped in the middle of the highway. Pulled over (barely), popped the hood, and my entire intake piping was laying on the panel. So I've had to move it back to the...

Just moved my MAF to another location, directly after the POD. (With the piping I have, it was the only possible location). Before I take it too far, can this cause any damage or disruptions? I gave it a quick boost up the street, and it seemed more responsive. But that could be my...

its running 10psi atm.

Yeah but is the setup as is, gonna cause a very noticeable difference between CAI/current. It makes sense that when at higher speeds its more responsive (as cold air is being forced in), whereas at a stop there is nothing to take in rather than hot air. I do know it definitely has to be done...

Hey guys, I have an L67 vy. Currently its setup with a pod filter, and some piping/ It has no surrounds, so Im under the impression that the pod is just sucking in a lot of hot air from the engine. The car is very responsive at higher speeds, but no so quick off the mark, unless I well and...

I know I'm resurrecting some medieval **** here, but I was about to make my own thread to ask the same question. And considering half the pictures here don't even load anymore, I may aswell kick off a half-decent thread. I want to lower my VY sedan. Its currently got pedders in it, and sits...

You're about two thirds of the way through the engines life, if it is relatively well maintained. If there's no reason to rebuild it, save the cash.

Tried a search, but found that basically everyone else with this problem either had the car actually play up, or just didnt have it exactly like my issue. Anyway, when I drive, occasionally, I will hear a beep and 'fuel gauge error, contact dealer' will show up. But heres the catch, it will...

Could be that, could be the speed you take the corners thats making it seem like it has something to do with 2nd gear - where id you're able to turn in 3rd or 1st, its too fast or slow to affect you. If the rack looks like its about to fall apart, I'd definitely start there.

I've had new clutches where the friction point was pretty far out, so I don't know if thats the best indicator or modern clutches - I know the 1st to 5th test and crap aren't as useful anymore. Could still be the clutch, though, I've just found that isn't the best way to tell. I had a clutch go...

Well if its running rich, maybe removing the MAF allowed the full amount of air in, allowing more air than the computer would usually allow, and letting the fuel combust which would explain the higher rpms. Whereas if the MAF is plugged in, its operating as normal, but the extra fuel isn't...

Where was the bang? Was it more of a backfire, or did it come from the engine bay?

My honest advice would be to get a car with somewhere close to or under 200xxx. Less is generally best, but regardless of service history and kms, LOOK IT OVER. I bought a car about a year ago, a VZ commodore, 115xxxkm, all services up to date, etc. A few months later, it was pretty well...

I have a habit of swapping cars pretty often. Over the last year I've been on this site regarding about 4 separate commodores. If I do take the senator, I'd want to keep it and put some work into it. More inclined to work a v8 than a s/c.