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I know this questions been asked, but its a whole lot of research to get it exactly right. Basically, I want to lower my VY SPAC sedan on king springs. My car currently has non-factory springs, so I cant measure to find out exact size of the springs I need. Basically, I was running FE2...

I moved it, and drove it around for a couple of days - didnt notice much difference. Then on the way to work this morning my car stopped in the middle of the highway. Pulled over (barely), popped the hood, and my entire intake piping was laying on the panel. So I've had to move it back to the...

Just moved my MAF to another location, directly after the POD. (With the piping I have, it was the only possible location). Before I take it too far, can this cause any damage or disruptions? I gave it a quick boost up the street, and it seemed more responsive. But that could be my...

its running 10psi atm.

Yeah but is the setup as is, gonna cause a very noticeable difference between CAI/current. It makes sense that when at higher speeds its more responsive (as cold air is being forced in), whereas at a stop there is nothing to take in rather than hot air. I do know it definitely has to be done...

Hey guys, I have an L67 vy. Currently its setup with a pod filter, and some piping/ It has no surrounds, so Im under the impression that the pod is just sucking in a lot of hot air from the engine. The car is very responsive at higher speeds, but no so quick off the mark, unless I well and...

I know I'm resurrecting some medieval **** here, but I was about to make my own thread to ask the same question. And considering half the pictures here don't even load anymore, I may aswell kick off a half-decent thread. I want to lower my VY sedan. Its currently got pedders in it, and sits...

You're about two thirds of the way through the engines life, if it is relatively well maintained. If there's no reason to rebuild it, save the cash.

Tried a search, but found that basically everyone else with this problem either had the car actually play up, or just didnt have it exactly like my issue. Anyway, when I drive, occasionally, I will hear a beep and 'fuel gauge error, contact dealer' will show up. But heres the catch, it will...

Could be that, could be the speed you take the corners thats making it seem like it has something to do with 2nd gear - where id you're able to turn in 3rd or 1st, its too fast or slow to affect you. If the rack looks like its about to fall apart, I'd definitely start there.

I've had new clutches where the friction point was pretty far out, so I don't know if thats the best indicator or modern clutches - I know the 1st to 5th test and crap aren't as useful anymore. Could still be the clutch, though, I've just found that isn't the best way to tell. I had a clutch go...

Well if its running rich, maybe removing the MAF allowed the full amount of air in, allowing more air than the computer would usually allow, and letting the fuel combust which would explain the higher rpms. Whereas if the MAF is plugged in, its operating as normal, but the extra fuel isn't...

Where was the bang? Was it more of a backfire, or did it come from the engine bay?

My honest advice would be to get a car with somewhere close to or under 200xxx. Less is generally best, but regardless of service history and kms, LOOK IT OVER. I bought a car about a year ago, a VZ commodore, 115xxxkm, all services up to date, etc. A few months later, it was pretty well...

I have a habit of swapping cars pretty often. Over the last year I've been on this site regarding about 4 separate commodores. If I do take the senator, I'd want to keep it and put some work into it. More inclined to work a v8 than a s/c.

No no no no, I own the VY, I WANT the senator.

As you can see, both sit in a pretty stock standard position. The VY has a few flaws with paint, and the rear bumpers garnish (that black centre piece) is missing. The VS apparently has a few little spots of paint also, so both are pretty much exact on how they look.

Because both the cars are relatively stock, they're worth around the same at the moment. Both cars have the element of potential, and I would love a senator to really perfect and have in 10/20/30 years. But I also dont know about the kms, and how the senators will hold value in years to come...

Hey guys, not my usual type of post, but gonna run it past some of you - just out of curiosity. I've been looking online for cars to swap for my VY (as I always do). I have come across a genuine VS Senator. Its basically stock, straight, 5L, auto, a few rough spots. A bit of work done, but...

Hey guys, not my usual type of post, but gonna run it past some of you - just out of curiosity. I've been looking online for cars to swap for my VY (as I always do). I have come across a genuine VS Senator. Its basically stock, straight, 5L, auto, a few rough spots. A bit of work done, but...

My mechanic is exactly TOO new-school. One of the bigger shops in my area. Cant say I was impressed with the motor all that much even before this huge issue happened. Apparently he was under the impression the previous owner had let the car overheat (probably from another cooling system fault)...

Well basically, when it was taken in to have the thermostat replaced, the mechanically basically said its 99% that, but if the leak somehow isnt that, it'd be the block. Once he removed everything to get to the thermostat (which we all know is placed in the stupidest spot imaginable), he noticed...

I know this is months late, but anyone who searches this might find it useful. After chasing leaks from the heater tap, hoses, thermostat, there was a crack in the block losing water. Car was as good as scraps. ($5000 for a new engine installed with any warranty), and the car only cost me...

I'm thinking of making this my pioneer car, something to sink some money and time into. So I'll be asking plenty of questions and bothering the hell out of a lot of users!

Make: Series II VY, S. Engine: L67 (10psi). Body: 'SS' bodykit, stock. Colour: Quicksilver. Suspension: Stock FE2. Exhaust: 3" Redback Catback. Audio: Nil. Additional: Factory sunroof, full leather interior. Recently bought this as my first ever driveable performance car. Previously...

Both the bottom two screws and the top two broke, have cable tied the bottom, and just put some bolts in the top to hold it firm. All done and put back together, just need to pick up some proper pieces to officially put it all back together. Thanks again for the help!

Hit a hurdle already. The two plastic screws on the bottom of the bumper are completely stuffed, no way will my screwdriver or drill be able to undo them. Looks like I'm not gonna be able to remove it?

Cheers guys. Once all screws are undone does it just fall off, or are there clips to pry off? Also, is it a prick to put back on, will I need two people? etc.

Hey guys, Tomorrow I plan on removing my towbar (reinfored 2100kg one), I know I'll have to remove my rear bumper to do this, and I was wondering if anyone could give me a step by step to remove it? I've never done it before, and while I assume its simple, better to ask first than go right at...

The SSVs just look so sleek and tidy/sporty. Not all that flashy, but effective. Asked me this question 2 years ago and I would've said 'G3T SUM CROM3 22'S BR0'. How much is has changed since.

I'm gonna be buying some for my own silver vy soon. I think ssv's look good, but you can only get them as 19s. If you insist on 20s get silver super sports. I personally don't like many aftermarket rims styles. So most Holden genuine rims look good IMO, but you'll generally pay more.

FIXED. So as I said, there was a nozzle for a vacuum hose that had electrical tape over it - not airtight, but would have restricted airflow atleast. This seems to be why it would only struggle on cold starts. I took the electrical tape off, and started it warm - it struggled like it would when...

The MAF had been hooked back up correctly, and was clean. That was my firth thought before I even came on here, but atleast he did that right. As for the vacuum leak, it was 'taped' off, but would have definitely been sucking some air through. I will make it airtight tonight, and see how it...

I might have found my problem. Does anyone know which vacuum it is that is literally connected directly under the pulley, on the block. Like 2inches or so down from the pulley. There is absolutely no hose connected, and the previous owner has half-assed some tape onto it, not really sealing it...

The engine isn't noisy or any different to usual driving, except obviously the shudder every now and then as it struggles. I'm gonna ask my first amateur question... Where exactly are all the vacuum hoses on my L67? Can't say I've ever touch a vacuum on any car I've ever owned either, so if you...

Definitely wasn't fixed by the cleaning. Any idea where the vacuum leak is likely to be? Haven't seen any obvious leaks anywhere.

Just FYI, do it yourself. Good with cars or not, its simple enough. I was lazy and got mine installed for $170. Could have bought one for $40 and had it installed with a screwdriver and 10min of my time. Its not a huge issue, but you will definitely lose coolant over a weekly period or so - I...

Gave it a good clean, along with the TB. Neither were all that gunky, but definitely had a bit of buildup (not enough to interfere though, imo). I'll wait a few hours for the car to cool down, and then we'll see how it goes.

Just as a piece of extra info, as soon as the car DRIVES (even if its only been started for 5 seconds), it drives fine. Its only when cold and idling. If that will rule anything out?

I just bought one myself, and so far its a great car - plenty of pickup, seems sturdy, and leather interior/sunroof is a good feature - always helps resale value too. I had read that people seemed to think the l67 would keep up with an ls1 at lower speeds - which has disappointed me. I...