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Bolt identification

WillyTheMLGPro

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Ive done that heaps of times at least in my case there was 10 or more cars to get parts from off to the next shitbox try again. Good luck hopefully theres a few the same on each car to give better odds of getting a good one.
Found 1 L67 Commo at my local wreckers, I'll go have a look later today.
 

Lex

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Found 1 L67 Commo at my local wreckers, I'll go have a look later today.
When you find the right bolt, it wouldn't hurt to put a tap through first to clean the thread up.

You don't want to inserting the bolt into its hole, if the thread is cactus. It will only stuff your bolt & you're back to square one.
 

lmoengnr

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I totally agree. I'm usually deciding between metric/standard/BSF
Whitworth is basically the same as unified standard.
The other month I did all my checks and it was a BSC (British standard Cycle. On an old triumph)

In this case we know Willy has a metric bolt, but I agree, measuring is the only way. Especially if we start dealing with pipe threads also (BSPT and NPT)
Major differences between threads are the thread angles.
All Unified/ISO thread angles are 60° (metric, NC, NF, NEF, UNC, UNF, UNEF, Unified taper threads)
British Standard threads 55° (BSW, BSF, ME)
British Association threads 47.5° (BA)
Calipers and thread pitch gauges will get you into the ball park, you can then refer to charts like these.
2023-10-08 13.11.53.jpg


2023-10-08 13.12.37.jpg


Industry standards use the 'pitch diameter' measurement using a set of 3 wires of specific sizes depending on the thread pitch (either TPI or mm) with 2 wires in adjacent thread grooves, the other wire in the opposite thread groove, measure across the wires with a micrometer, then refer to a chart that comes with the wire set to check if the pitch diameter is within tolerance.

Hope I explained that to understandable.
 

Lex

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Major differences between threads are the thread angles.
All Unified/ISO thread angles are 60° (metric, NC, NF, NEF, UNC, UNF, UNEF, Unified taper threads)
British Standard threads 55° (BSW, BSF, ME)
British Association threads 47.5° (BA)
Calipers and thread pitch gauges will get you into the ball park, you can then refer to charts like these.
View attachment 258663

View attachment 258664

Industry standards use the 'pitch diameter' measurement using a set of 3 wires of specific sizes depending on the thread pitch (either TPI or mm) with 2 wires in adjacent thread grooves, the other wire in the opposite thread groove, measure across the wires with a micrometer, then refer to a chart that comes with the wire set to check if the pitch diameter is within tolerance.

Hope I explained that to understandable.
It goes straight over my head?
I know there are different thread sizes & pitches.
This is why l go to the bolt bloke stores. They sort me out.

I have basic tap & die set. The 5mm .08 pitch l have, but didn't seem to be working for the job. So bought a new one (suttons) worked perfect.

I can now reassemble the job.
 

lmoengnr

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It goes straight over my head?
I know there are different thread sizes & pitches.
This is why l go to the bolt bloke stores. They sort me out.

I have basic tap & die set. The 5mm .08 pitch l have, but didn't seem to be working for the job. So bought a new one (suttons) worked perfect.

I can now reassemble the job.
I just used an M5x0.8 tap to mount the milling machine steering wheel to the custom boss I made.
I always try and buy Sutton's or Goliath HSS taps, expensive but much better than carbon steel taps, and so much better than the eBay chinesium taps.
 

Lex

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I just used an M5x0.8 tap to mount the milling machine steering wheel to the custom boss I made.
I always try and buy Sutton's or Goliath HSS taps, expensive but much better than carbon steel taps, and so much better than the eBay chinesium taps.
But probably not?
One day l'll go out & buy a good suttons tap & die set. Hopefully before l've replaced all chinesium ones! :cool:
But probably not?hahaha;)
 

WillyTheMLGPro

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Emailed more shops with pics that they can reference when I ring them.
Fingers crossed.
 

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If it were me with this situation, I'd take the buggered bolt to the bolt shop and get a replacement.....For the flare at the base of the bolt head, a simple washer will fix that issue....

The ringing/emailing/texting etc will potentially cause the wrong bolt to be supplied when you collect it, or if it is delivered.....
 
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