Planning An LS1 Build

[elliottecarter]

In this build, I’m looking at HP in the mid+600s. Hopefully, this is a sufficient summary of the plans to-date:

• HEADS:
  
  • To be resurfaced & CNC ported (By HIGGINS)
• TRANSMISSION:
  
  • To be rebuilt/reconditioned;
  • Plus high stall torque converter (@ 3600RPM — to match cam selection).
• SUPERCHARGER (to add):
  • Bolt on RAPTOR centrifugal supercharger.
  • Plus fuel pump, intercooler, injectors, etc. — All to match.
• CAM (to suit supercharger):
  • VCM 5SC: 224º/232º; LSA 114.5º
• ALONG WITH THE CAM:
  • High volume oil pump; single row timing chain set; lifters; dual valve springs; push rods; ARP fasteners; gaskets; plates; etc.
• INTAKE (to add):
  • 102mm intake manifold (with fuel rails) &
  • 102mm throttle body.
• ROCKERS (to add):
  • Roller rockers (TBD);
  • Trunion upgrade.
• DIFF (to be rebuilt):
  • New centre, etc.
  • Gearing @ 3.9.
  • New drive shafts.
• EXHAUST:
  • To fit 3” dual exhaust;
  • Plus long extractors.
• WHEELS & TYRES:
  • Current wheels are 16’’.
  • Bumping up to 19s: 8.5 front, 9.5 rear.

UNDECIDED:

Forged pistons & control rods

ECU/PCM upgrade

Crankshaft

 

[losh1971]

I'd considering just going 18s instead of 19s, only because it's a bit thicker rubber than a 19 will be.

 

[elliottecarter]

I'd considering just going 18s instead of 19s, only because it's a bit thicker rubber than a 19 will be.

Interesting thought.

 

[Ginger Beer]

As Losh stated, if you are going for some decent power you will need decent traction

I would look at the tyres you want to run, find some that give you that traction you will require and look at the sizes they come in

I've gone 17 x8.5 and 9.5, that gave me the option to put 275/40 17 Mickey Thompson SS Superstreet drag radials on, I also have another set of the same rims in the same rear size that I currently run Toyo R888R 275/40 17 on for street duties

Tyres will depend alot on use though, drags, street, dry or wet weather driving

I've found you need at least a few sets of rims with different tyres if you want to drive on the street and at the track/strip

Track/strip tyres are average to dangerous on the street, and street tyres are rubbish at the track/strip

 

[07GTS]

In this build, I’m looking at HP in the mid+600s. Hopefully, this is a sufficient summary of the plans to-date:

• HEADS:
  
  • To be resurfaced & CNC ported (By HIGGINS)
• TRANSMISSION:
  
  • To be rebuilt/reconditioned;
  • Plus high stall torque converter (@ 3600RPM — to match cam selection).
• SUPERCHARGER (to add):
  • Bolt on RAPTOR centrifugal supercharger.
  • Plus fuel pump, intercooler, injectors, etc. — All to match.
• CAM (to suit supercharger):
  • VCM 5SC: 224º/232º; LSA 114.5º
• ALONG WITH THE CAM:
  • High volume oil pump; single row timing chain set; lifters; dual valve springs; push rods; ARP fasteners; gaskets; plates; etc.
• INTAKE (to add):
  • 102mm intake manifold (with fuel rails) &
  • 102mm throttle body.
• ROCKERS (to add):
  • Roller rockers (TBD);
  • Trunion upgrade.
• DIFF (to be rebuilt):
  • New centre, etc.
  • Gearing @ 3.9.
  • New drive shafts.
• EXHAUST:
  • To fit 3” dual exhaust;
  • Plus long extractors.
• WHEELS & TYRES:
  • Current wheels are 16’’.
  • Bumping up to 19s: 8.5 front, 9.5 rear.

UNDECIDED:

Forged pistons & control rods

ECU/PCM upgrade

Crankshaft

u may get mid 600's (rolling dyno) (hub dyno easy) on a LS1 it will be a little harder but possible, also fuel type will affect that petrol or e85 ?

u may want a different cam for the centri blower and the hp goals i think will need a longer intake duration

only go high volume pump if u need it as it takes more torque to run more volume oil and usually stock pressure and flow is fine just get one that dosnt cavitate

trunion upgrade is good stock rockers can handle alot

diff, stall u should suit to the power ur going to make and style of power, the centri blowers build boost as they increase rpm and too high gearing could make it slip too easy but u also want enough down low to get u off the line before decent boost is being made so as mentioned a talk to a trans place to work it out for what u want to do

stock ecu will handle all of those mods,

there is forged and there is forged, 4340, 4032, 2618 alloy forging, if u want all out power handling for serious conditions 2618, but if u want strength with stock like clearances then the 4032 or 4340 is the go, but for the power in the 600 range the stock internals will be fine with the right tuning and easier on e85, the crank is strong enough and rods u may want to change over or get better arp bolts for the stock rods and arp stud the crank and heads, adjust bearing clearances, rings to suit more power should be fine,

keep the stock compression think they are bout the 10.6 or something so suit up the camshaft with the centri to work right should be fine

 

[elliottecarter]

As Losh stated, if you are going for some decent power you will need decent traction

I would look at the tyres you want to run, find some that give you that traction you will require and look at the sizes they come in

I've gone 17 x8.5 and 9.5, that gave me the option to put 275/40 17 Mickey Thompson SS Superstreet drag radials on, I also have another set of the same rims in the same rear size that I currently run Toyo R888R 275/40 17 on for street duties

Tyres will depend alot on use though, drags, street, dry or wet weather driving

I've found you need at least a few sets of rims with different tyres if you want to drive on the street and at the track/strip

Track/strip tyres are average to dangerous on the street, and street tyres are rubbish at the track/strip

Yeah, right. That’s excellent

 

[elliottecarter]

That’s a lot to take in (rethinking the diff gearing & toque converter). But I’ll chat with a cam place about something more suitable to match the blower.

The diff gearing and parts I’ve already bought. But not the torque converter. That’s planned for when the transmission’s refurbished.

 

[elliottecarter]

u may get mid 600's (rolling dyno) (hub dyno easy) on a LS1 it will be a little harder but possible, also fuel type will affect that petrol or e85 ?

u may want a different cam for the centri blower and the hp goals i think will need a longer intake duration

only go high volume pump if u need it as it takes more torque to run more volume oil and usually stock pressure and flow is fine just get one that dosnt cavitate

trunion upgrade is good stock rockers can handle alot

diff, stall u should suit to the power ur going to make and style of power, the centri blowers build boost as they increase rpm and too high gearing could make it slip too easy but u also want enough down low to get u off the line before decent boost is being made so as mentioned a talk to a trans place to work it out for what u want to do

stock ecu will handle all of those mods,

there is forged and there is forged, 4340, 4032, 2618 alloy forging, if u want all out power handling for serious conditions 2618, but if u want strength with stock like clearances then the 4032 or 4340 is the go, but for the power in the 600 range the stock internals will be fine with the right tuning and easier on e85, the crank is strong enough and rods u may want to change over or get better arp bolts for the stock rods and arp stud the crank and heads, adjust bearing clearances, rings to suit more power should be fine,

keep the stock compression think they are bout the 10.6 or something so suit up the camshaft with the centri to work right should be fine

What do you mean “slip?” [diff, stall u should suit to the power ur going to make and style of power, the centri blowers build boost as they increase rpm and too high gearing could make it slip too easy]

 

[07GTS]

What do you mean “slip?” [diff, stall u should suit to the power ur going to make and style of power, the centri blowers build boost as they increase rpm and too high gearing could make it slip too easy]

rear tyre grip, the more power u make the harder it is to get to the road and higher diff gears increase torque (all gearing is a torque multiplier or divider) so a n/a build u will prob want high gearing to get it moving but boost adds torque and hp so the same gearing then multiplied will be too much for the tyre so then u will have to use less throttle so kinda against the process, where as for example if u take off in 2nd its much harder to spin but takes more torque to do so which the boost has that n/a dosnt, so u just have to work it all out to suit what ur doing or want to do

 

[elliottecarter]

rear tyre grip, the more power u make the harder it is to get to the road and higher diff gears increase torque (all gearing is a torque multiplier or divider) so a n/a build u will prob want high gearing to get it moving but boost adds torque and hp so the same gearing then multiplied will be too much for the tyre so then u will have to use less throttle so kinda against the process, where as for example if u take off in 2nd its much harder to spin but takes more torque to do so which the boost has that n/a dosnt, so u just have to work it all out to suit what ur doing or want to do

Ah, right.

I was of the understanding a centrifugal supercharger doesn't add much down low; needs some RPM. That's why I thought that gearing would be fine. But I also thought along those lines with choosing a cam. However, you mentioned I may do better with a cam that has a longer duration. Then, another part of the mix is the torque converter (@3600RPM).

I'm new to this world, but the planning of this build has taken a shape that's making sense to me. What am I missing (in how I'm looking at this)?

thanks...